Walking and hiking trails in Romanian Bucovina to the Giumalau peak

The Mount Rarau is a kind of Romanian Olympus, subject to many myths and legends, and very popular among Romanian, maybe because is easier accessible. There are more possible trails for that, I have already recommended you one.

Compared with Rarau, the Giumalau peak is only 200 meters higher, but so different! Is is not so friendly anymore, he won't allow you to discover it so easy. Giumalau is much more arrogant, has forests up to the peak, and on  its northwestern side you can discover another old genuine protected on 300 hectars forest (600 acres), called Pojorata. The forests is very similar with the Slatioara forests , and consists mainly on bruce firs, in pure unmixed woods! Over 1700 meters the spruce firs are amazing small, and suffer strong deformations due to the permanent winds. At this point of your climbing appear the small, but dense juniper tree (Pinus montana), which you can cross only after big efforts! My tip: leave them, and search for a proper trail. Other plants emerging often here : the blueberry bush (Vaccinium myrtillus), or the Vaccinium vitis-idaea. In the lightings appear Saldonella montana or the bells (Campanula abietina). A new apearance among the birds, a real star: the mountain grouse; about the bigger and smaller mammals, very similar with Slatioara: wolf, fox, roe, deer, bear, lynx in extended populations. You can still hunt there a lot, let me know about it!

The arrogant Giumalau is not impossible to conquer

One possible trail to conquer the Giumalau is starting from Vatra Dornei. You must climb 1057 meters, following the red band. Please leave by dawn, you must walk 10 hours. The trail leads from Vatra Dornei to Chilia Creek-Obcina Mare (1245 meters)-Obcina Mica (1322 meters)-Lighting Ciungi (1550 meters)-Giumalau Peak (1857 meters) -Mountain Hotel Rarau(1520 meters). Observe in Vatra Dornei the first red band in the small park near the local Council. Be so kind and leave at the left the highway, following the road 17B along the picturesque valley of Bistrita Aurie. When the creek Chilia pays its last tribut to the Bistrita Aurie, follow the creek valley (the red band is very easy to see and follow)

You deserve a good rest after  conquering the peaks Rarau or Giumalau, and the mountain hotel Raraul can offer you that

Follow 5 km the forest road , discovering the Obcina mare and obcina Mica. On the meadows appear the mountain typical landscapes: fences and summer rooms for peasants or animals. Don't miss the exceptionally view from the lighting of Obcina Mica. After only 3 km you cross other trails for conquering the Giumalau peak: one coming from Putna Valley and Itcani (red triangle), or from Mestecanis cabin (yellow band). In a short time you will be able to conquer the arrogant Giumalau peak, after 6 hours hiking, becoming as a small attention the breathtaking view. The other few hours you need to reach the Hotel Raraul, as you need lodging somewhere, and this is the most reasonable possibility! Hotel Raraul is satisfactory, you deserve a good rest after conquering a peak of 200 meters. Take also a refreshing dinner, with a glass of wine.

There also other options of trails towards Giumalaul Peak, but the main thing to know is this: it is not impossible conquering it, be self confident. Take good care on the way of you and your group/family, and never lose the from the sight the trail markings. Also important: don't dare to think of hiking these trails in winter, it is too dangerous. Imagine what happens losing the marks and direction!

Hiking trails in the Romanian Bucovina to Raraul Mountains

If you reach Bucovina with the main goal to discover its terrific painted monasteries, please observe the wonderful living nature in the neighborhood. And, yes, please, watch carefully the mountains. They are not very high and easy accessible even for untrained people, within 6 hours you can reach the peaks starting from Campulung Moldovenesc.

One of the most iconic landmarks of the region, The Rarau Mountains are the highest in the area (1650 meters in Rarau peak, and 1857 meters in Giumalau peak). These mountains are stretching on 375 sqkm. Admire on the Rarau Mountains the limestone rocks. Even on the peak you can discover amazing markers of erosion, The Lady's Stones (Pietrele Doamnei in Romanian).  These stones are very visible from big distance on the clear days. They are declared nature Monuments and thus severely protected from 1955. The protection comprises not only the geological structures, but also the amazing plants growing there. Even higher with 200 meters, Giumalau is more difficult to climb on, but rewards the brave travelers with an breathtaking view of the all region. Somehow, on mysterious ways, Raraul and Giumalaul managed to preserve their forests up to the peaks, and this is one of the reasons making them so easy accessible.

A map of the region, with the exact locations and the many trails

Special mention on Rarau, for the amazing Slatioara Forests. It is a natural reserve stretching on 270 hectars (340 accres) between 100 and 1340 meters altitude. It is actually one of the the last genuine European forests, being protected from 1940! It is also one of the oldest European forests, proudly counting 400 years, with firs of 50 meters height and 1 meter in diameter!  Discover on the low altitude the firs, followed by the spruce firs at the bigger ones, but if you are really an expert find also pine, yew trees or beech. Also very well represented in diversity and numbers are the animals: bears, wolves, deers, foxes, squirrels, lynxes. Add the rich world of the birds, singing or prey ones, and get a seducing mix. just leaving the old forests of Slatioara, you see a huge impressive meadow, on 44 hectars/88 acres, also named the Todirescu Botanical Reserve, with many species enjoying your senses.

The majestic Rarau with its lady's rocks

The easiest way to reach Raraul peak is starting from Campulung Moldovenesc, near the railway station. Within 6 hours you can reach the peak. The trail is usually and normally easy accessible all year long, as 14 km are along a highway. The total climbing is 900 meters, and the mark consist on the red point. Only 2 km away from the town, the first pleasant surprise, The Gorges of The White Creek. It is a natural reserve on 2 hectars, with old houses, forest, meadows and rocks. 7 km away from Campulung discover a strong water source, a good place for peace and meditation. From Poiana Sihastriei the climbing becomes much more difficult and demanding, but also rewarding. E.g., observe a huge landfall, which took the forest ant the highway with. At km 12 you can see already The Lady's Stones, at the Hawk Rock. Go straight to them, turning left, and discover the  Mountain Hotel Rarau.

The Giumalau peak is crowned by a legendary Christian cross. Please, don't try to reach it in winter, unless you are an exceptional skilled and trained traveler

Within very short time you will forget the efforts to reach the peak. The breathtaking view is a good reward, as discovering some endemic plants on the rocks, e.g the rock flower (Leontopodium alpinum). This trail is not very difficult, but rewarding, I hope to enjoy it. Hiking is much better than writing or learning about it!

Epic little towns in the Romanian Bucovina

If you came in Bucovina and stay in Suceava do discover the legendary painted monasteries,

you have the wonderful chance and opportunity to discover a few interesting places, according to your specific interests and hobbies.

You can, e.g. to ride your bike on the hills around, and discover the churches and the villages on slow speed, which I recommended more times. Not far from Suceava, beyond the hills, are the mountains, and you can walking and hiking in these wonderful mountains, watching carefully the the rich world of local plants and animals. For the fans of urban life and civilization I have also some tips. Discover first the city of Suceava, and compare it afterwards with the little towns of Radauti, Gura Humorului, Campulung Moldovenesc, Falticeni or Vatra Dornei. And that's the today issue.

The little town of falticeni, a Romanian Florence. Here the communist blocks of flat

I would propose as a first target the town of Campulung Moldovenesc. It lies at 600 meters height and enjoys an excellent tempered climate. It si very long (good 15 kilometers), as its development has been made along the main road. Very long are here the winters, as also very snow rich, and the summers chilly and rainy. The mountain peaks of Rarau and Giumalau are close to the town, and many hiking paths lead from the town to those peaks. In downtown you can still see some interesting buildings from the Austrian period, before 1918. Shortly, the best conditions to make a good climatic and tourist resort. which Campulung really is. Discover in Campulung Moldovenesc , whose economic life is tighten to the wood, the impressive "Museum of wood crafts". It is old, hosted in a wonderful building, with 10 exhibiting rooms, as also an exhibition outside, under the sky. You will try to imagine how old these artifacts have been used in the area for wood working, hunting and fishing. There is even an amazing horse driven wine barrel (for me the most important piece from the museum, you can bet on it). Outside expo contains two traditional houses, two or three centuries old.

Aerial view of the picturesque Campulung Moldovenesc

Also in Campulung Moldovenesc a private collection, named Ioan Tugui, has an convincing expositions of 5000 wooden spoons, mainly from Bucovina. Besides many carpets, pottery and coins.

Much better renowned in Romania and worldwide is the picturesque town and tourist resort Vatra Dornei, lieing in an breathtaking depression, on a height of 800 meters. The town developed first as an important trade point in the area, on terraces at different levels. All around, small mountains, not higher than 1300 meters, and only 3 months yearly of hot season. If you dream to ski, Vatra Dornei is the right place, with 120 days of snowy days every year. All the mountains around have a volcanic origin, and in the area there are many sources of mineral waters. The downtown Vatra Dornei and mainly the nice Casino are very well kept. Find and discover there the Museum of Natural Sciences, with his Ethnographic or Biology departments. A special mention for the huge Central Park (wider than 50 ha, means aproximately 100 accres). It is protected as a natural reserve, and the squirels in the park are friendly, you may feed them! I reckon, that a good occasion to discover Vatra Dornei could also be the Festival of Winter Traditions, starting on 28th December.

vatra Dornei is a favorite target for ski and winter sports

Last for today, but not least, the town of Falticeni, which is comparable with the Italian Florence, due to the high density of notorious culture people having the roots in the area: Ion Creanga, Mihai Eminescu, Ion Irimescu and many others more. Their presence and relation with Falticeni is remembered in the local Gallery of Important People. 

Falticeni is lower than the other mentioned towns (400 meters) and you can see all around charming orchards. You can discover the local traditions in the best conditions taking part to the local festival, one in Summer, on 20th July, and one in Winter, on the 27th December.

Epic trips in the Romanian Bucovina

As I talled so much about this blessed part of Romania, I propose you now a short trip not far from Suceava, namely from Radauti to Humor(Gura Humorului). If you wanna improve your Romanian knowledge, Humor is the right place! The word has the same meaning as in English, and the people are friendly, joking a lot.

The Monastery from Radauti

Discover in Radauti the impressing Sinagogue, which is really an architectural asset of Radauti, remembering the Holocaust. Further (what means further in a little town with 30 000 people?) discover, walking or riding the bike, the Zoo. It is centered first on the local animals (Bucovina is a paradise for hunters) like bear, fox,wolf, deer, lynx. Besides, exotic species, which are not so easy to keep during the long cold winter, as you can imagine! The people in the area really love animals, and also the domestic ones. It is a tradition for keeping and breeding horses, and you can visit a stud farm just entering the city. For the art freaks, be sure to find an art gallery, mainly contemporary artists.

The Church from Sucevita is one of the illustrated books of the Christianity

Only 5 km away from Radauti is the Putna Monastery. You will most probably cross more times the local train, which is not high speed Inter City, but totally satisfactory for the locals! The location of the Putna monastery has been choosen by the big ruler Stephen the Great, hauling an arrow with his bow! You can see the hill where Stefan cel Mare/Stephen the Great launched his arrow, next to the monastery. The church and the monastery are not so old anymore, due to successive destroying and restorations. Very old and well kept is the Treasure Tower, where the values were hosted during the sieges or surprise attacks. The monastery hosts nowadays the remaining of the big king, with a part of his family, and has a very interesting museum which woth paying a visit anyway. 2 km away is a remarcable place:  the refuge cell of Daniil The Monk, one of the most important adviser of the Moldavian ruler. Observe the sobriety and austerity of his cell (no electric power, no Internet, only worship!)

Spending a night in an insulated cell like this would be the best cure against digital addiction.  Imagine the strength and the strong beliefs of Daniil, the monk living in such conditions for years

 On the way from Radauti to Sucevita allow a break in Marginea, a village with good traditions in the black pottery. When you see first the Sucevita Monastery, it looks like a fortress! They have to do this during those times, you can understand it. These days in the defending walls are the cells and the museum. The church is really spectacular, dedicated to the Resurection Christi, the biggest miracle in the Orthodoxe mythology. Very impressive is the the separating wall, and the exterior painted frescos. Note the Virtue Ladder, or the Jesse's genealogical tree!

Following the direction to Moldovita, don't miss the majestic view from the highest point, The Palm Pass, before reaching and discovering the Moldovita monastery, also looking like a fortress.  Observe in the outside painting something not usual, but easy to explain: the asiege of Constantinoples! The fact is that these painted monasteries were supposed to be living books of the Christianity, with important contributions of spreading the Orthodoxe religion.

Within 30 minutes you can reach the town Gura Humorului, but please observe om your way the amazing villages of Vama, Molid or Frasin, which have and keep very old genuine local traditions. Visit in Humor the renowned Monastery of Voronet, a coronation of your travel through the rich history of the Romanian church. Voronet is surely the peak ( some visitors name it the Sistine Chapel of the East). The colours of the extrior paintings are simply amazing,and you are supposed to observe the blue! The blue of Voronet, actually, which is original, and made based on a secret recipe, probaly with powder of lapiz lazuli!

I am very much afraid of speaking too much. This trip is normally one day long, even by bike, measuring 50 kilometers. And I keep talking and talking! The reality is much better than my description, for sure, you are incited to check up!

Most romantic destination in Romania for Valentine's day

If you bet, that I am going to send you in Romania on Valentine, you won! Why? Because I love this country, and because is a wonderful thing for you, as a guest. And don't bother if you haven't any partner, you can go on your own!

The glamorous Cazino from Sinaia is one of my suggestions on Valentine's day

Traveling to Romania on Valentine's Day might be tricky, only because in Romania on that time is very cold, but you won't sleep under the stars. I would select the best destinations, the romantic ones.
First of all, I will propose you to go on the seaside, in Constanta. The spell of the sea in winter is much easier to hear and see, as there are no the crowds of tourists. Besides, Constanta has also some amazing attractions, like theatre, museums and mall, offering a complete entertainment. I suggest to lodge at Malibu hotel, next to Mamaia resort, a noble place where everybody will spoil you! A romantic evening in one of the leading restaurants of the downtown, maybe Cazino, will complete your moment of glory!

The wonderful city of Oradea and it charming downtown

Very different from Constanta, and also far away (1000 km away) is Oradea. It is not so big, but  really seducing in the Old city. Staying in Continental hotel from Oradea means a lot, and the friendly staff will not disturb you unnecessary. So, please, pay all the attention to your partner, and have a wonderful vacations, good to remember and describe to friends or nephews! The creamy cauliflower soup can make the difference, I guess it to be an excellent and tasty  aphrodisiaque! You can then forget, neglect and cancel the schedule for the evening, stay to your partner.

The city of Iasi is doubtless a Romanian cultural Capital. Besides, offers excellent entertainment and shopping opportunities

If you are the type of lover desperately searching for intimacy and insulation, I will recommend you a small cabin in Sinaia. Very peaceful there, almost unbelievable, unless you are on week-ends. You can ski, and have a glass of boiled wine on the slope, just to raise you fantasies,  in case you might need! As a small break, you can visit the Peles castle, which is an amazing art museum, and have a walk in the city, maybe with a dinner in Restaurant Casino, the most stylish and iconic in the area (restaurant Casino organized a glamour New year party, on a theme of Hollywood from 1930, btw).

Another interesting target for lovers is no doubt the city of Iasi, or Jassy. It has many museums, but also a tremendous downtown, with excellent malls and shopping or entertainment opportunities. I suggest in Iasi the hotel Moldova, with an excellent report between price and value. The restaurant is also enjoyable, for your romantic evening and foreplay, possible with meat rolls and a glass (or more) from the local red wine "Bull blood" or the "Bear power"! You won't sleep any minute all night long, I swear, as I already experienced!

Whatever you choice, have a happy Valentine's day and may your secret wishes come true. If you decide coming to Romania, let me know about it, and book at least one week before, as overbooking is probably, and even possible!

Epic short  trips from Suceava, inside the Romanian Bucovina

If you stay for a few days in the city of Suceava with the main goal to discover the amazing painted monasteries of Bucovina, you can find other places worth a visit.

Discover in Suceava The Armenian Church Hagigadar and observe the architectural differences comparing to an orthodox one: the form is rectangular, and there are no less than three different altars, which is normally for the Armenians. On St Mary's day the people climb the hill where this monastery lie and go three times around, all on their knees. The reward is also consistent, the most ardent wish shall hereby come true!

Not far from Suceava, and thus easy accessible even by bike, are many interesting places! If you leave Suceava for Dragomirna, after visiting the monastery, observe the genuine beech forest around Dragomirna. It is more than 90 % genuine and natural, hosting some animal species (deer, boar, fox, wolf, rabit, savage cat etc. If you are lucky enough, you can also hear a wonderful concert, without paying any tickets, when nightingales and other birds will gather your interest. The trees are old, between 90 and 110 years, and the forest huge, about 200 accres. Drive further towards Siret, and meet in the village Patrauti the church and the natural reserve Quercetum de la Crujana.This forest is much smaller, about 60 accres, but still very impressive. It consists mainly on oak, with a similar rich fauna with the same species.

In Calafindesti, not the forests, but the meadows are the main target. Usually we don't pay much attention to the meadows, but please do an exception  here in Calafindesti. You will observe here for sure the rarely Ligularia Siberica (rare in Romania for sure, and even endemic, in Russia and Siberia is common).  The Ligularia Siberica is here at its south west boundary, and you won't see it in any other place in Romania. Other rare or endemic species are still to be seen in Calafindesti!

Next is the town of Siret and the Ukrainean border. Siret is actually one of the oldest towns in Moldavia, being the first Capital of the Moldavia during Middle Age. At 1388 Siret lost this privilege, and the Capital moved in Suceava. During the Austrian occupation of the XVIIth and XIXth century the town played only trade and crafts functions. Very important was at those times the Jewish population, representing almost the half of the town. Nowadays, after Holocaust and emigration in the communist era, very few Jews are still to find, but you can visit the synagogue and the two Jewish cemeteries. Another must see in Siret is the History museum, ending in 1945, as all the Romanian Museums do!

The Jewish cemetry from Siret, an amazing memento

Another epic trip from Suceava is towards Solca, over Arbore. The village Arbore is really huge, and very picturesque, with well kept traditions. It proudly counts 7000 inhabitants, and you must see there the Village Museum Toader Hrib, which is not very big, but instructive, together with the local church. In Solca you can discover the amazing Peter and Paul church. An outskirt of Solca, namely Cacica, hosts a renowned salt mine, with an unique salt carved chapel (made in 1904). Not less unique are the salt lake, which is not big, but very deep, 38 meters, as the congress room at 44 meters underneath the ground level. If you are a history and art freak, don't miss in Cacica the Catholic church, which is overwhelming through architecture, dimensions and and importance (on the 15th August here takes place the biggest pilgrimage of the catholics in Moldavia.

The catholic church from Cacica is a favorite target for the pilgrimage in Moldavia

May be you are going to love the Romanian history and  geography on this way, but I don't want to abuse of your goodwill! I will continue next time with Vatra Dornei, Falticeni, Campulung Moldovenesc etc
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Epic trips and special feelings in the Romanian Retezat Mountains

All the mountains, young or old, volcanic or of other origin, must have been very frightful to our ancestors. Every people has its own myths and legends, and the mountain peaks have been reserved for the Gods, not for the humans! The Romanians are not excepted from that kind of legends. Our people is very close to is mountains, and they used to shelter and food in the deep of the mountain forest, and also used to say "The forest is brother with the Romanian!"

I wonder which was the stronger impulse for exploring the mountains and revealing its secret: the need for resources, or the call of the unknown? Conquering mountains, the human always wins self confidence, skills and knowledge, and these feelings are not limited to the Romanian Retezat Mountains, the Romanian mountains. In the same way applies to the Andes, Alps or Himalaia. The mountains are genuine, broadly speaking. You can feel much closer to the nature in the mountains, and there are strong reasons for the yoga retreats to be in remote places, mainly isolated mountains.

Near Bucura Lake in Retezat is allowed to camp

Further I would dare to say that The Retezat Mountains are very particular, not only in Romania. These mountains are surrounded by high mountains, and are far away from the main roads. These things make the Retezat Mountains really special, a strong personality and underline its richness. These mountains are sober, high, and they won't allow you to discover them, if you don't respect them enough!

Driving along the Mures Valley between Orastie and Deva, and looking to the North, you will be totally impressed and fall in love by the irregular aspect of the Retezat Mountains. I would name the Retezat Mountains what is inside the Retezat national park, which is a breathtaking nature reserve with some endemic species of animals and plants. Lodging in the area is possible in the Gemenele cabin, e.g., but remember to grant more days for the Retezat Mountains.

The spectacular and not easy to find black goat (Rubicapra Rubicapra)  has an important population in Retezat, but in other areas of Romania and Europe vanished

Even if you are not an expert, you can discover many things about the older or newer history of Retezat mountains. First of all, the last glaciation left behind visible traces. The Retezat mountains hosted the biggest glaciers in the Romanian Carpathians. Observe too the glacier lakes, they are simply overwhelming, over 80! (e.g. Bucura, Black Lake, Brazi, Custurii  etc, to name just a few ones).

In the big forests of the Retezat mountains observe the levels of vegetation: first level, between 700 and 1200 meters altitude beech, oak, and hazel trees. At 1000 meters appear already the coniferous, mixing first with oaks and beech. Between 1200 an 1800 meters the coniferous are the only one who can resist and stay. After that limit, it is too hard even for them! In the forest and on the picturesque meadows an expert can find many endemic species, but I will spare you from those impossible Latin names, e.g. Draba Dorneri.

A survivor, a natural one, with his shepherd in the retezat

A special mention for the animals of the Retezat Natural Reserve, mainly big mammals. Any addicted hunter would find here many running targets, but must be aware: he must posses a special permit. I saw important population of deer (Capreolus capreolus), pigs (sus scrofa) and crows (Corvus corax). Nevertheless, I assume that the bears(Ursus arctos) live the best in Retezat, together with the lynx (lynx lynx) or the black goat ( Rupicapra rupicapra). Beware of vipers on the hot days, when they come out for catching new prey (birds and rats). The rivers an the lakes are rich on fishes, mainly trouts.

You are going to love these mountains and this natural park, every nature freak does. Must be aware about the right behavior inside the natural reserve, bag you pardon for telling and remembering you it. Don't leave many wastes behind, think about all the possible dangers, keep any fire under attention. But I am sure you know all these things, even more, and love this planet and our nature, as you wanna come in the Retezat mountains!