The history of the Romanian Germans

Myths and legends about the Germans from Romania

I must confess, I like and love Germans, as the most of people in Romania also do. They have been for centuries very esteemed and beloved, being a sort of people who had major contributions to the culture and civilization in Romania.

German Made Architecture in Sibiu/Hermannstadt, still having today a German Mayor

They have been very orderly, hard working  and industrious, they build hospitals, schools, museums etc and we, the Romanians, would like to say "Danke!" /Thank you! Comparing to them, the Romanians seem to have a better sense of humor, as they are oriented to enjoying life, while the Germans are hard workers and the last to understand a joke! But nowadays this cliche does not apply anymore, my German tourists understand a joke better, deeper and more sweeping than I do myself!

The Black Church from Brasov is one of the most impressive in Romania

The Germans came to Transilvania during  the XIth century brought by the Hungarian King Geza I, who aimed to secure the boundary. For almost 1000 years they did not only defense and securing the boundaries, but also developed cities like Brasov/Kronstadt or Sibiu/Hermannstadt. They made business, they build houses in an easy to recognize style. But the history has been very ruthless to the Germans during the 20th century. After the WWII the Romanian Germans have been deported to Romania or Russia. Many of them did not come back.

Old Habsburgic Uniforms to the guards from Alba Iulia

Besides, after a catastrophic economic policy of Ceausescu, he simply bought a good part of the German experts to the Western Germany. It was a major success of the Romanian economy during the communist time! After the dissolution of the communist regime and the fall of Ceausescu, all the economy collapsed and almost all of the remaining Germans took the decision to emigrate in the reunified Germany (it was obviously the only possible option, not only the best one).

Another example of K.u.K architecture, in Suceava

But nowadays we need another Geza to bring our Germans back! The Romanian economy started to move, the country is stable, it is possible to make businesses here. Best prerequisites to come in Romania. Some of the Germans who left Romania really come back. The life is cheaper, and the environment better than in the Western Europe. The city of Sibiu still has a German Mayor, Klaus Johannis, and this is maybe the best guarantee for the returning Germans.

Myself, as a travel guide, never forget in my trips to mention all these things about the history of the Germans and their contribution to the local culture and civilization. And all the Romanians feel the same, we love our Germans. And nowadays, we call sometimes one Romanian as "The German", being the most beautiful compliment: he is the best in his area!

 5 reasons to visit  Curtea de Arges

If you go from Bucharest to Sibiu one option is crossing the mountains through Transfagarasan, a spectacular  road in the mountains, crowned by international jury to be one of the most spectacular worldwide. Shortly before the mountains, you drive through Curtea de Arges.

In Curtea de Arges everything happens on the main street, the long Bulevard Basarab Ist

This town could seem insignificant and not worthing a visit, being similar with other grey sad meaningless Romanian towns. But the true is very different, even on the contrary: Curtea De Arges needs your time and attention, even if it doesn't ask for them!

First of all, a reason is the wonderful position, in the middle of the hills. You can already see the mountains, and feel them, sometimes there is a strong breeze in the town. Curtea de Arges has a clean mountain air and a special flair. On the near hills there are orchard and forests, you might have the opportunity to find here by the locals (no chance in supermarkets) tasty fruit jams and marmelades. Really unbelievable the huge difference of taste between these genuine products and what you can find in the international. supermarkets!

The breattaking Bishop's Church and Monastery from Curtea de Arges attracts any eye with its twisted towers

Another reason to pay a visit in Curtea de Arges is the simple fact, that this towns is one of the oldest in Romania. It was grounded in the VIIIth century, and strongly decayed  afterwards.  But in the XIVth century Basarab I, the grounder of Wallachia, manages to rebuild it and makes it the Capital of the new state. The town flourishes due to the trade with Sibiu, over the mountains. The ruins of the former Princely Court can still be seen in the downtown. The growth and the wealthy of Curtea de Arges lasted 2 centuries only, because in the XVIth century the Capital of Wallachia has been moved first in Targoviste, and then to Bucharest.

The Princely Church St.Nicholas from Curtea de Arges in the old Court.

Curtea de Arges hosts a few Medieval churches, which are among the most beautiful in Romania, real masterpieces. Two of them are not to be missed: The Bishop's Church and Monastery, and the Royal Church St. Nicholas.

The Bishop's Church was founded at 1512 by the ruler Neagoe Basarab, and accomplished by his follower Radu de la Afumati. Very isolated, almost hidden between leaves, the church is very compact and attractive, due to its twisted towers.  You'll need some time to observe all the oriental  ornaments, birds and plants. These ornaments will be repeated inside, on the floor, or when you will discover the breathtaking twelve columns (after entering a superb door). The church has also other ornaments, Venice mosaics, which have been partially destroyed by an earthquake and moved to the National Art Museum in Bucharest. The French architect Lecomte de Nouy renovated the church at 1875, replacing the mosaics with modern paintings, mainly golden. The church serves also as royal cemetery: here in the church sleep are buried the founders Neagoe basarab and radu de la Afumati, but also the King Ferdinand I and the Queen Maria, King Carol I and the Queen Elisabeth .

The original painting of 1352 in the Royal Church

Not very far is the Manole's fountain with a vey interesting legend.. Manole was the master who build the church, and observed more times that the wall collapsed. Desperately, he took the decision to insert in the building walls the first person who will come . Unfortunately for him, it was even his beloved wife! Shortly, the church has been terminated, and the work was not seen before, due to the special secrets of Manole. But the ruler did not accept that other personalities could enjoy similar churches, and took the decision to take manole as a prisoner, inside the church. Trying to escape by air, similar to Icarus, he collapsed and died. Where he falled emerged a water source and was build this fountain!

Curtea de Arges is nowadays a very long town, build mainly on Bulevardul Basarab, where you can find all important attractions: banks, hotels and restaurants, pastry shops, everything is here. Even a statue of Basarab I is on this boulevard, of course. Next to the statue, the princely church St. Nicholas, build even by this ruler, and restored in1750. the byzantine structure of Wallachia's oldest building is untouched. The painting are the original ones, but still very living, in an excellent shape. The founder is buried here, of course, and the former Court is near the Church.

I think you never thought to find so many things in a small town like Curtea de Arges. It definitively deserves one day from your time. From Curtea de Arges you can go to Sibiu, or to Pitesti, or Bucharest.

Most important things to do in Brasov

Very easy accessible from Bucharest (only 170 km away), Brasov lies literally in the very center of Romania. After visiting Brasov you are going to have a tonic feeling that the World, Romania and specially Brasov are wonderful, a good place to live.

The Black Church of Brasov is not black at all, but passed many fires. It is one of the Europe,s biggest gothic cathedrals. Be sure not to pass the organ concerts on Tuesday and the fab carpet collection

Brasov (German Kronstadt, Hungarian Brasso) has a Turkish ethimology after all, as the Turks have been also active and interested in the area. Brasov is maybe the most touristic city in Romania, with the best restaurants and a much relaxed atmosphere compared to Bucharest, the Romanian Capital. The city has many cafes and hotels, but usually all of them are booked up; during the Music Festival Golden Deer you need for sure a prior reservation.

Downtown at night. Very impressive, very Medieval and very nice. A living lesson of architecture

Historically speaking, the first attested written docunent date back from the XIIIth century, mentioning the privileges granted to German Saxon in Brasov by the Hungarian King Geza IInd. The German traders and craftsmen from Brasov gained a good reputation in the neighboring Romanian countries of Wallachia and Moldavia, where they received also some privileges. The Black Church in the centre of Brasov is still today the center of the German community, still counting 2000 people. The downtown is very well preserved and offers a brillant example of German architecture, and you can feel transported elsewhere in Austria and Germany. Looks even today overwhelming for the Romanians (during Middle Age the Romanians had no right to settle in the German city, and were supposed to live in the Schei neighborhood, entering the city through Scheigate. Compare the architecture from Schei with the Downtown!). Don't miss in the Black Church the organ concerts on Tuesday and the impressive collection of hand woven carpets, donated by the German traders.

One of the two citygates still lasting today.(Catherine gate)

Very close to nature, Brasov has very near (12 km away) the winter sports resort of Poiana Brasov ( actually counting as a city neighbourhood!). In Poana Brasov's many slopes you can ski at any knowledge level, you can skate and practise other winter sports. It is really a bid for an edition of Winter Olympic games.

Poiana Brasov is a reputated winter sport resort

After a longer or shorter walk in Brasov you are normally subject to napeache, due to the many things needing your attention. If you are not hit by napeache, it surely means that you haven't been enough regardful to city beauties! A wonderful panorama of the city you can get from Tampa, the peak overseeing Brasov. Up to 1450 there was a fortress there, but Vlad Tepes Dracula destroyed it. Nowadays you can find a good restaurant there.

Another highlight in Brasov is the Romanian Orthodox Church of  St Nicholas

Things to do in Timisoara

Timisoara, very close to the Romania's western border, is  a sort of regional Capital. It is the country's third populous city, but one of the nicest. Timisoara was always a sort of Romanian avantgarde, lieing in a region, namely Banat, which enjoys the country's highest standard of life.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Timisoara is one of the city's landmarks

Timisoara has a long history, being settled for the first time in the good old abtic times; nevertheless, for the first time in writing dates back to 1030. In Middle Age Timisoara had a troubled history, being ruled by Hungarians, Turks, Austrians, even Serbs, and finally became Romanian after WWI. Today Timisoara is an interesting mix of nations, but also a model of peaceful life ( add to the mentioned nations the Italians, Germans, Ukrainians).

Timisoara is such a nice touristic city also because of its many parks and gardens

In Timisoara you can do walking trips in this wonderful city. Don't miss the Orthodox Cathedral, Unirii Square, Victoriei Square. Timisoara is very beloved in the all Romania, and not simply by chance the Romanian Revolution from 1989 to defeat Ceausescu started in Timisoara. You can follow the traces of this Revolution, and even find contemporary witnesses!

Timisoara has many old buildings, creating an eclectic  and charming mix of styles

At night, you can go in the City Opera Theatre, or in one of the three Timisoara's Theatres (Romanian, Hungarian, and German). Or you might enjoy a good dinner in one of the many restaurants of Timisoara (special mention for Hotel Restaurant Continental, offering a perfect service, and also a wide panorama of the city.)

In the history Timisoara was twice destroyed by fire, and once by plague, but managed to live further, as the Phoenix Bird (also the name of the most important Romanian pop band of the 70's) but nowadays enjoys its stable prosperity, being one of the Romania's favorite target of foreign investors.

You are going to love Timisoara from the first sight (please don't look first to the sad communist blocks!). The Architectural mix from the center is charming, comparable to Bucharest. Don't miss in Timisoara The Etnography Museum, in the city's oldest building, from the XVIIIth century.

Must see in Romania: Sibiu

Maybe not the biggest, but one of the nicest and most important cities not only in Romania, but in the all Europe, Sibiu was elected 2007 (together with Luxemburg) the European Cultural Capital, thus becoming even more popular as a tourist destination

Panoramic view of Downtown Sibiu; far behind, the peak Moldoveanu, Romanian highest, a favorite target for the trekkers

Sibiu has a rich history. It lies on Cibin River, and the Roman fortress in the area was called Castrum Cibinensis, but the first human settlements go back to the Halstatt age. In the XIIth century Sibiu (German Hermannstadt, Hungarian Nagyszeben) appears for the first time in a written document. After a massive German colonisation promoted by the Hungarians, Sibiu became a flourishing city, with 19 guilds, everyone of it having its own tower (not all preserved up to today). The German architecture is still present in the Downtown (divided in Upper Town and the literally Downtown), you will feel transported in Middle Age, somewhere in Germania or Austria!

The City Hall of Sibiu and the Bruckental Museum

The numerous German population was a majority, observed already to the first census after Reunification with Romania, from 1918. But during the WWII the German population decreased, and nowadays only counts 3 % of the total population. In the Ceausescu time, the communist regime promoted the Emmigration, the Germans were the best ware for Ceausescu export. Today, the Romanian population deeply regrets the lacking of germans and warmly welcomes they back. Amazingly, the Mayor of Sibiu is the repesentative of this minority ( Klaus Johannis is very beloved, competent, and was reelected more times).

Group of Norwegian tourists and guide Kjell Hagbarts in Downtown Sibiu

Due to its status as European Capital of Culture, Sibiu experienced a boom in building sector. Toghether with the German investments, results in a very prosperous city. Really a place to visit, and even one to live (according Forbes!). Don't miss Sibiu while in Romania!

Crama Sibiul vechi offers traditional Romanian meals

There is no time to boring in Sibiu, there are so many things to do. Walk in the Centre, from Piata Mica through Piata Huet to Piata Mare, observe the wonderful City Hall, fresh redecorated, of course. If you are an art  and culture freak, don't miss the Bruckenthal Museum, near City Hall. Walk further, near Hotel Imparatul Romanilor, the city's most atractive place to spend the night(s). Further, on Nicolae Balcescu Street, you find a lot of cafes and fancy boutiques, it is the city's most chic and expensive one. And if you are tired, I can recommend a Romanian restaurant checked by myself, with a group of Norwegian tourists, Crama Sibiul Vechi, offering traditional menu, while the waiters wear traditional suit!

If you have more time to spend in Sibiu, visit also the Museum Astra of rural civilization. If you are lucky enough, you will meet couples wedding in the church, or other folkloric festivals.