The Fascinating Story of the Romanian Jews

The history of the Jews in Romania

There are unfortunately very few Jews living today in Romania. After the Holocaust, many of them fled to to the forming Israel and contributed decisively to its consolidation

Main street from Focsani, similar to other Romanian towns and cities, was full of Jewish stores

During his last years in power, the Jews have been for Ceausescu one of the best export hits, after a long series of economical mistakes. But neither Ceausescu, nor the most of the Romanian people were anti-Semite. The Romanian are tolerant, and many of the Jews  living here enjoyed this hospitality of the Romanian people. In exchange, the Jews contributed a lot to the wealth of some cities, towns and villages in Romania (e.g. Oradea, Sibiu etc). Bucharest has had a huge Jew quarter, which is still to be seen today.

The Coral Temple of Bucharest is the country's biggest sinagogue, liein in the Jewish Neighborhood

Between the WWI and the WWII almost every single town in Romania had a main street with fancy shops, and most of them were owned by the Jews. It is said, that all the clients entering a Jewish store ought to buy something, even on credit, as the wares have been good and the shopkeeper very skilled in attracting and convincing the clients.

Many doctors, scientists and intellectuals have been Jews. It has been said "one Jews, Two Romanians" in the radical circles of Romanian nationalist (we had for sure, there are silly people everywhere. Mention Garda de Fier/Iron Guard, or Ion Antonescu etc.)

The Sinagogue of Brasov, one of the many in Romania

The Jews came in Romania from many places of the world. When Bucovina stand under Austrian occupation, many Jews from Galitia were invited here. Other sources: Russia etc.

During the WWII and Holocaust the Romanians had a part of guilty about the Holocaust and mass deportations, with the excuses of foreign pressures. But many people neglected the orders, and tried to help the oppressed Jews (e.g. Raoul Sorban from Cluj Napoca). We regret nowadays the lack of the Jews in the Romanian villages and cities, and would like having them back.

The famous Restaurant Pescarus from Bucharest, an excellent relaxing place

More than 10 % of Israeli population speak Romanian. These people still love Romania, remembering the nice things of their stay here. Many of them still visit Romania regularly, have friends, connections etc (maybe some of them are becoming investors). It is very touching speaking to these people, I had this opportunity during a Romanian folcloric show in restaurant Pescarus. The Tour guide left Tulcea when she was two years old, but she is still able to speak Romanian!

5 Most Captivating Castles in Romania

5 Most Captivating Castles in Romania

The Romanians suffer on a strange disease: they are very generous when come to naming a building as a palace. It must be a relic from the bad communist years, when the buildings were almost identical, and the local identity totally destroyed. Under these circumstances, maybe you you will understand easier: any older building, different to the contemporary stalinist style became automatically a palace.

Any small town has a palace, and even many villages have an own palace! Most of them totally decayed or insignificant, showing to be big disappointments! That's the reason why I shall name the massive, old, special and significant buildings as castles!

Trying to make a selection of the most impressive castles in Romania, Peles comes first, no doubt. It has been built by the first German King of Romania by the end of the XIXth century. It lies in a wonderful alpine landscape, in Sinaia, where the neighboring forest turned to be a park. Inside is a sophisticate expression of the best taste. From the castle's 100 rooms you will allowed to visit only 4 or 5, during a guided tour. But they are really the best ones, and the most spectacular. You will see even a present from an Indian maharajah, but I don't unveil more!

The Bran Castle had nothing to do with Dracula, but takes a huge profit of this myth

Second comes the Bran castle. Also owned by the former King's family, was intended to guard a trade way between Transilvania and Wallachia by its inauguration in the XVth century. On mysterious way, it has been tighten with the myth of Dracula (not true at all, to be honest!) and enjoys crowds of visitors. That's why I  recommend to start the visit in the morning.

The massive Corvin castle from Hunedoara

Another interesting and recommended choice, for the third place, is the Medieval Castle from Hunedoara, who belonged to the Prince Iancu de Hunedoara. He ruled over Transilvania, and the Romanians claim this name for him, together with his Romanian origin. The Hungarians name him Janos Hunyady, and say he was Hungarian. Maybe the true is in the middle, or maybe beyond: new approaches said it was a Serbian! The historic truth is that he was very brave, fought successfully more times against the Turks and died suddenly on plague. This castle belonged to him, and you can admire the some unhappy restoration works, but also a shocking torture room.

The Fortress of Poenari really belonged to Dracula, but lies off the beaten path!

On the fourth place, The Fortress of Poenari, waits only the trained skilled people, who can climb 1000 stairs. It really belonged to Vlad Tepes Dracula, who used it for refuge and defending fortress. There are still rumors for lost treasure of the Prince Dracula, hidden in this remote area, many people are still searching!

The Fortress of Rasnov is another Eagle's nest, very rewarding for the pacient tourists

On the 5th place, also last, but not least, the Fortress of Rasnov, by Brasov, offers a fantastic unique view to the Carpathians!

Urban Archaeology in Romania

Romania is one of the few countries in the world where almost a half of the population still leaves to the countryside, and this is one of the reasons making this unbelievable country so attractive.

But I don't want to propose you this time another Romania Rural Tour. Not at all, even on the contrary. I love also the Romanian cities, and all of them have their obvious or secret charm for the hard workers searching for it. There is a very interesting thing to observe in every Romanian city, namely the circular structure. If the specific city you are visiting has a downtown, see the upcoming rings, estimating their age. A Romanian city is really like a tree, and you can guess its history and successive ages  judging only based on these rings.

I am becoming more and more a fan of the older Bucharest and its way of life. What do you think about it?

To be more specific, I would rather refer to Bucharest. The Downtown counts in its core buildings from the XVIIIth century, and even much older ones. 500 Meters further you will surprisingly see buildings from the late XIXth and the young XXth century in a charming mix of architectural styles. It is very similar with Paris, the visitors used to call Bucharest the little Paris. After other 500 metres discover the traces of The Ceausescu Era, who massively destroyed downtown for building modern luxury blocks of flats for his devoted nomenclature (about 1985).

The Romanian Television Central Office is already obsolete, but still very useful

Another 500 Meters away other blocks of flats, from the 1950's with much lower standards, for the developing working class of those times. These blocks of flats have big problems nowadays, when celebrating their 50th anniversary or more. The installations are not working properly anymore, and the destroyed Romanian industry doesn't hire any more. The inhabitants are old and poor, not able anymore even to paint the flats, neither outside, nor inside. The fact is that everybody's dream is to move away from these sad living silos, but only a few .can afford to do that.

You might be tired, you already walked a few kilometres through the Romanian history! Take a break in an underground bar from an old house, some of them are really charming with their strange atmosphere. Once refreshed, keep on walking or take a cab. You are looking now for the former huge industrial factories, the pride of the Ceausescu regime. After his fall, most of these factories showed themselves to be not able to compete or perform or to make a profit. Most of them closed their gates, and left behind huge buildings. Find them, they are amazing and overwhelming, as the creativity of the Romanians giving these huge spaces a second life. In some of them, between lathes and milling machines, one tried to start up a bar, club, wholesale or whatsoever. But huge surfaces are still available, maybe you can start a business in Romania!

Take a deep breath and a long walk on these sites, trying to figure their former life, full of  noises or fumes. Imagine the obsolete production methods, based on hard human work, and ask yourself if progress necessarily means better! And after this breathtaking visit, observe beyond the factories the last ring: building from 1990 up today. Mainly villas, very modern and sophisticated, but also some small or medium sized companies, looking very modern. To be honest, I like better and even love so much more the old factories and neighborhoods, they are full of life, joy and joy of life.

The amazing history of the Hungarians in Romania and the fantastic Szekelyifold

Nowadays the Hungarian minority is the most significant in Romania, almost 7 % of the population, or 1500000 people are esteemed Hungarian. It is the most beloved yet controversial minority, and the most reliable.

The Hungarians (Magyar or Szekelyi) are hard worker and loyal. They don't speak so much like the expansive Latin Romanians, lacking sometimes the sense of humor. But if you win their trust, they keep the word and can jump in fire for you. We, Romanians and Hungarians, have a long history behind, 1000 years. During  all these times we hat arguments and fights, good things and bad things. Sometimes all these old hard feelings flare up. The fact is that there are still to find silly extremists on the both sides, mainly politicians using this sensible matter to rise their popularity.

Miercurea Ciuc/Csikszereda is very nice and clean, and has fantastic restaurants

In my opinion, this long common history should keep us together, not separate us. I want personally thank to the loyal Magyar citizen of Romania. Many Romanian sport champions had Hungarian origins, e.g. the renowned trainers of the big champion Nadia Comaneci were Martha and Bela Karolyi, nowadays living in the USA. Koeszonem szepek.

In the very heart of Romania there is a compact Hungarian population, the Szekelyi. In this amazing area you can hear rather Hungarian speaking than Romanian. They are very proud and not anyone can win their trust. The villages are very old and fantastic good kept. Many Hungarians from Hungary travel here to rediscover some forgotten traditions. The most amazing thing about these Szekelyi is their fantastic spectacular cuisine. They are actually the best chefs in all leading Romanian restaurants. They cook the best goulash worldwide, but you must be aware: smells and tastes fantastic, and is impossible hot. Eat it together with the hot palinka (double distiled plum or pear brandy) as appetiser and a good strong Romanian wine (do it for me, please, and for the historic reconciliation).

Sfantu Gheorghe/Szepziszentgyorgy is another interesting town  to vizit in Szekely land

The Szekelyifold/Tinutul secuiesc is a spectacular mountain area, with many fantastic landscapes and interesting small towns, near the mentioned villages. The Szekelyi socialize excellent in their villages by brandy making, when they stay together for hours, as the village has only one boiling installation used alternatively by any of them. The same happens to the big bread ovens. It is a wonderful event visiting a good traditional Szekelyi restaurant from the Szekelyifold. Keep in mind the towns of Miercurea Ciuc, Sfantu Gheorghe and Odorheiu Secuiesc.

Pitesti, a Romanian Detroit

The Romanian city of Pitesti is easy comparable with Detroit. Based mainly on the automotive industry it was bad hit by the major crisis in this branch. But we must nevertheless keep the right proportion, as Pitesti only counts nowadays 150 000 inhabitants, registering 10 % decrease within the last decade.

Pitesti enjoyed during the 50's  an unexpected international publicity. In the local jail people from Pitesti the feared Securitate (Romanian Secret Service) ran one of the darkest page in the contemporary history of Romania. Namely, the prisoners should mutually torture each other, reporting directly to the head Nicolschi the progress made on the right path! Known as the Experiment Pitesti, has been documented in many books, and I would mention and recommend as a good one this specific title written by Paul Goma. He succeeded to escape alive and emigrated later, but many people lost their lives or their minds there.

The St George Church from Pitesti has a strange beauty, inside and outside

But not all the local history is so dark, on the contrary. On the hills surrounding Pitesti there are many orchards and vineyards (Stefanesti is the best renowned all over Romania). The local plum brandy "Tuica de Pitesti" is turning to a national and international brand. A local legendary football player, namely Nicolae Dobrin, had a soft spot for it. Another prominent with his origin in Pitesti is the former Romanian dictator during WWII Ion Antonescu.

A few centuries ago the city was surrounded by thick oak forests. The huge Trivale park is a wonderful remnant and visiting it is really relaxing. It is exceptionally well kept, stretching on impressive 30 hectares (60 acres for the Americans).  You can even find a stadium and a Zoo there.

Mayoralty from Pitesti, only one piece from the interesting downtown

During Middle Age Pitesti was shortly a Royal residence of Wallachia. Very close to it, thus easy reachable through short trips, are other former Capitals, e.g. Targoviste, Curtea de Arges and Campulung. Pitesti has been hosting for centuries the residence of Bratianu family, prominent liberal leaders. The communist regime used and then brutally destroyed their manors, and even demolished a church build by the Bratianu family unfortunately.

But Pitesti still has many things to offer to any tourist coming in the area. The wonderful St George church is the first recommendation I can make. It is really wonderful, inside and outside. City Museum documents the long history of the city, starting with the Paleolithic age. Much later, at 1450 the city was for the first time mentioned in writing, as an important trade hub.

If you visit Pitesti in the Spring, and are lucky enough, you can catch the unbelievable local festival "Simfonia Lalelelor" ( or Tulip Symphony), which is really spectacular, much beyond you can imagine.

The Big Romania Tour of former Capitals

I am fascinated by the Middle Age, I wonder about all the conveniences from a Royal Court. It must have been a hard time comparing with a modern club when the girls are wearing shirt skirt as an uniform. I wonder how was during Middle Age accosting, dating and loving a women wearing a very long dress with a crinoline. Hard times indeed.

We can only speculate about, I am sure we can discuss a lot more about this hot issue. Visiting the former Romanian Capitals and asking or answering the right questions would be an interesting thing, I am sure, that's why I am proposing you the Tour of Former Romanian Capitals. As you might remember, during Middle Age the history mentions three Romanian countries : Wallachia, Moldavia and Transilvania. In Wallachia, before Bucharest gains its overwhelming importance, the capital was closer to the mountains, much easier to defend, successively in the towns of Campulung, Curtea de Arges and Targoviste.

Alba Iulia at night, inside the citadell, the Orthodoxe Church

The Moldavia Capital has been long time in Suceava. Even the legendary Stefan cel mare/Stephen the Great was located in Suceava and had here its Capital and headquarter. Later, under the constant pressure of the Othoman Empire, Iasi became the Capital.

Transilvania was under a strong Hungarian-Austrian influence, but I am not going to send you away in Budapest or Vienna. Go better to the headquarters of the local Diet (Parliament) in Alba Iulia, Sibiu or Cluj Napoca.

Cluj Napoca is former Capital, and a nice city for sure!

A difficult task indeed for a Swiss, overwhelmed by the huge Romania! Romania is not so big, would only say is a medium sized country with its 237 000 sqkm and 20 000 000 inhabitants. According my researches and ideas, if you are on a time pressure we can manage to see all these cities within 3 days. Less means to pass some interesting places.

The trip shall start  from Bucharest in my opinion, but I am very flexible about that. During first day visit please the former Wallachian Capitals Targoviste, Campulung and Curtea de Arges, which might appear nowadays unsignificant province towns. Digging deeper, you can find some wonderful, really royal churches (all the court was orthodox and attended the church regularly) or museums, even fortifications necessary for the defensive purposes. If you are in the warm season and the wonderful road Transfagarasan is opened, cross the mountains on it, the landscape is really fantastic. Reach then Sibiu, and visit it in detail, it is a still a wonderful city. You have all the time in the world, we are going to spend the night here, in an excellent **** hotel, with wine tasting to the dinner. Don't miss the Bruckenthal museum, it is also worth to a long visit.

The Culture Palace from Iasi, which is even today a Romanian Culture Capital

Start your second day leaving Sibiu and visiting Alba Iulia and its very well kept citadell, and the city of Cluj Napoca/Koloszvar/Klausenburg, still being today an interesting mix of populations, who lives in a perfect harmony (my opinion, the Hungarian shall correct me if I'm wrong, koeszonem szepszi!). Unfortunately, we have not much time for Cluj-napoca, as we have to reach Suceava's  hotel Bucovina. Visit Suceava citadell next morning, and imagine the legendary Stefan cel Mare ruling the city and the country. He was rather small, violent and with a soft spot  on beautiful women, no one could resist him, or didn't dare to say no. Live for Iasi, the Moldavian capital up to 1859, which is still nowadays a very important cultural city. The last for 400 km up to Bucharest are only a play. Please keep in mind that the all trip comprises 2000 km, and give the good news about dedicating it longer than three days. Also, according your budget, I can find a good solution! The trip as described above, 3 days with complete pension and lodging in exquisite hotels, would cost 500 Euros.

Epic stories about the inhabitants of the Danube Delta

Once arrived in the Danube Delta you might try visiting it off the beaten path. O.K., your choice, your risks. Without joking anymore, it could be a good idea, if you don't forget these tips!

In order to visit Delta in its depths and to discover all its secret, try to stay close to the people, the amazing locals. Take a regular ship from Tulcea in any direction, and start observing discretely the inhabitants. They are all fishermen, but I am sure that you can make the necessary distinction between the locals and the visiting fishermen!The locals won't wear fancy  suits, they have worked hands and a special look. They seldom go out shopping, only the really necessary things.

No local has car, would be useless, but all of them have boats

Since a few decades the population of Danube Delta is practically the same. They really love their places, otherwise won't stay here. This territory is one of the thinniest populated in Romania and Europe, nevertheless human settlements have been for milleniums here, remember Tulcea or Sulina, as the most important representatives. But along the years many other simply vanished, leaving behind some amazing ruins and monuments. The water had no mercy at all and gulped down many artifacts.

Locals (Lipovans) fishing in the Danube Delta

The locals of Danube Delta are one of the most important assets and attractions of the area. Their look and daily life are absolutely amazing. Most of them are very strong and tall, it is a basic condition for surviving. The men usually wear huge beards and spend most of their lives in the boats, searching for fish to make a living. Their stories, myths and legends are tighten to the river and fishing adventures (don't bother believing them, just pretend, as otherwise you can offend them). They are perfectly mastering the canoes or Kayaks, and some of them became renowned sportsmen and recordmen, e.g. Ivan Patzaichin, a Romanian legend living in Bucharest now.

You will appreciate at once, from the first sight, the uncomplicated way of the locals. They are really charming, due to their optimism and hospitality. Staying by them is an event and an honor you can refuse. Don't go there with empty hands: a bottle of strong alcoholic drink (vodka or brandy) will be the most welcomed present, together with cigarettes. And thus you will get a fantastic fish soup, secret recipes, with few different species, bigger or smaller, depending on the last captured prey.

Lucky skilled people get the deserved result of their  fantastic work

But who are these amazing people and where did they come from? If you were an outlaw, would go to idea that Danube Delta is the perfect hiding place. Remote villages, difficult communications, seldom policemen. Most of the locals came here as fugees, and the most important community is the Lipovans'. They had to live Russia by the beginning of the XIXth century due to strong confessional repressions. They are actually orthodoxe of the old communion, keeping on the Julian's calender. They are blond, strong and tall, and speak perfectly Romanian, but also a sort of Russian among them. You can find them all over Danube Delta, in Ilgani, Rosu, Ceatalchioi or Rosetti, Chilia etc. They build their houses from mood and wood, cover with bulrush. These houses are not supposed to hold a life, as these harsh locals are used to build more houses in a life. The houses are not very rich, but clean and well kept.

If you are a fisher they will adopt you at once, taking with them to the daily fishing. Please observe carefully, even note, and learn, as they are are really masters with a huge knowledge and unbelievable stories, far beyond your imagination. As a wine afficionado I had no easy task here, but I managed doing good friend among these excellent people you can rely on.

The wine road from Focsani

It is an unbelievable wonderful weather at this moment in Focsani, and I must prepare the new spring season. It is very easy at 10 degrees Celsius and I am very optimist about it. For the wine addicted, I will renew the offer from former year, starting with the convincing Big Romania Wine Tour, a success program.

The trip along the Wine Road starts in Focsani

The Vrancea district, whose residence is in Focsani, is very well renowned for its huge neverending vineyards, one of the most important regional landmarks. It is actually the biggest surface of vineyards among other Romanian districts, as one of the biggest wine production. Unfortunately, other regional vineyards like Murfatlar or Cotnari, enjoy a better marketing and selling policy, but Vrancea never gives up! The vineyards are shared between more or medium sized farms, and thus everybody wins!The many and spectacular wine tastings on the way will delight you for sure, if you understand all about this fascinating branch and area.

Spectacular barracks in Odobesti

In the Wine land there are many wine roads, I personally selected one variant. We start from Focsani and travel up to Andreiasu, through Odobesti-Vartescoiu-Brosteni-Mera-Reghiu. From the many vineyards from the area we can select a few for tastings, but we could select much more. The trip is not very long, lasting a day, even if you ride the bike instead driving. Leave the town of Focsani through its Cotesti neighborhood, and discover first the village of Campineanca. Its existence is tighten with the Romanian Unification from 1859, when Wallachia united with Moldavia. The border was in this area and after is disappearance, the guardians from the both sides took the decision of setting this village. There are three churches in Campineanca, and in the center you can discover a small monuments for the people who falled during WWI.

Please observe the barrels/bariques, every household has many of them in Odobesti and on the Wine road.

Almost without notice you got the village of Unirea(Patesti), outskirt of Odobesti. please notice the vineyards stretching all over the horizon, and proof again manner and patience, before the wine tasting from Odobesti, in the Dyonyssos caves. Unirea was for the first time mentioned in a written document at 1684. Everything in the area is tighten to wine, which is the main occupations of the locals. They simply love the wine, enjoy life, and can speak uninterrupted about their fantastic product. Two important local sorts are Sarba and Galbena (Yellow), they are unique here and you can't find them anywhere else. Don't forget to ask about them, even by the tasting. Or rather don't, the host will be able to speak for hours about.

Magura Hill is the highest in Romania

Very close to Odobesti (10 km away) is the highest hill in Romania. Magura Odobestilor is rather a mountain through its altitude of 100 meters, but a hill through its structure and neighborhood. Climbing it is not very difficult, but requires skills and training, and last a few hours. Once on the top, the perfect reward: excellent panoramic viewto 10-20 kilometers. You can imagine the strategic importance of this point for military observation during the heavy fights from the WWI given in the neighborhood! On another hill, next to the town of Odobesti, namely Sarba, have been found pottery fragments from the La Tene culture (200 b.C). Already during Middle Age Odobesti has been known as a leading vineyard in Moldavia. An interesting place is the Cross Church, founded by the traders' guild.

Very close to Odobesti is the village Vartescoiu, another one dedicated to the wine, with many farms and caves. Nowadays it became an outskirt of Odobesti and simply lives in its shadow. On the same way, discover a similar village, Faraoanele, whose name has a wonderful legend. When the Turks were ruling Moldavia, and the collectors came gathering the debts, in Faraoanele no one could give much due a dramatic water shortage. Very disappointed, yet upset, they found two wonderful young girls, having the saving idea to send the girls to the sultan's khareem. But all the locals protested, and the two girls escaped somehow. The both girls' name was Oana, and in Romanian the village name means "No Oana".

A few kilometers further discover the village Mera with its old fortified monastery. From now on the roads are not easy accessible and not practicable after heavy rains. But the landscapes are more spectacular and genuine. Notice in Andreiasu the "Living Fire", caused by a gas emanation, which permanently burns. There are possible many itineraries in these area, but only possible as walking tours.

A misteryous insulated town on Danube mouth

If you visit the breathtaking Danube Delta, you have so many things to see and to do. Besides the many spectacular views of natural reserves, protected areas, or endemic species, one of the first options is visiting the little town of Sulina, lieing on the arm with the same name, mainly on the right side. It is actually the  easternmost point not only in Romania, but in the all European Union.

In order to judge the works of the Danube, observe in the centre of the town the lighthouse, build at 1850 on the shore. Meanwhile  the Delta has won 1500 meters, it is obvious! The lighthouse has been build at the blossom of the history of Sulina. The port was very important, all the big protecting powers, starting with Austria, were deeply interesting controlling the navigation on the Danube. In the same time has been appointed an European Commision for Danube navigation, which build in Sulina an imposing palace for administrative tasks. This palace is another landmark of the today Sulina.

In Sulina you can bath in the Black sea, as in the Danube River, it is really unique

There are so many things to say about Sulina. Unoficially and unproofed, it might be the oldest human settlement in Romania, dating back from the VIIth century b.C. In the Middle Age starts the written history of Sulina. The Turks started to use first this port, which is simultaneously a river and a sea port! Later, in the XVIIth century, Sulina was an excellent pirate nest. The pirates used ships, but also the forests around the town, to disappear before and after their surprise attacks. A special mention for the legendary Greek pirate Karagounis, who has nerve and was very brave. He died suddenly, and the locals found and buried him respectfully, in the town cemetery. His lost treasure has been not found up to now,and if you are lucky, could also try. His tombstone is only readable  at morning, after wiping it with a wet towel!

When the Sulina's lighthouse has been build 200 years ago, it was on the shore line. Meanwhile the land has won almost 2 kilometers

There are also other prominent personalities  sleeping in the town cemetery, e.g. an English officer with his beloved wife, disappeared in a ship disaster of the XIXth century. After marrying a lower condition women, his parents forced him to leave the house, and he found a place as a ship officer, and his wife followed him disguised. The both receded in a spectacular shipwreck, and their parents build monuments for them. But the bodies have not been found, and the speculators say that they used the opportunity to go away for ever!

The Pirates' cemetery from Sulina

The peak of the recent history of Sulina was between 1860 and 1939, when the port started losing his importance due to the quick development of Constanta. Today the tourism might be a good chance for Sulina, as its excellent wide fine beach stretches along the Danube, as also on the seashore. It is comparable with Vama Veche, the Romanian Capital of the bohemians in the hot season. In the remote corners of the beach there are good conditions for naturalists, please don't disturb them. Sulina can be reach exclusively by water. This huge disavantage turns to be an advantage, as the travelers number rises permanently due to the genuine nature around Sulina ( e.g. the lakes Rosu, Rosulet, Puiu, Lumina as the many creeks and channels)

How to find the best Romanian meals and where to order them

Coming to Romania is not anymore a risky adventure, as it used to be a few years or decades ago. The Romanian are civilized normal people with manners and right behavior, the country is safe and the streets almost o.k. You can find in Romania best hotel chains with most sophisticated amenities, but you can also spend your vacation to a small pension, or at the home of a welcoming local (which I would really recommend !)

You can also find in Romania modern, sophisticated dishes, or fast food, but I hope that you didn't come here to queue to McDonald's, it would be outrageous! Searching and asking the Romanian dishes and specials will make you richer and locals will appreciate and even adopt you (once they did, you can be sure that they will be devoted and borrow you even the shirt)

A very appreciated Romanian dish are for sure the meat rolls, which you taste better with corn mush and creme fraiche. Pair it with a dry white wine, and you will be next to paradise. These meat rolls never lack from any Romanian feast, it has tradition and some special spices for the secret recipes. It is possible to find them in different presentations, rolled in cabbage, or grape leaves, bigger or smaller, with little variations in taste, but they they still are number one.

Restaurant continental from Oradea is a good place to order Romanian specific dishes

There are for sure some regional differences between the certain areas of Romania. A general influence is first of all the refined French haute cuisine, introduced with the second half of the XIXth century, beginning with Bucharest, which has had always excellent restaurants. The evolution of Bucharest restaurants goes on nowadays in a spectacular way  through  the opening of many restaurants with foreign kitchen and dishes!

In Transilvania is a  strong influence of the Hungarian Austrian kitchen. Visiting Oradea, Arad, Cluj Napoca is easy to detect it. An important role play in this area the bacon, as other pig products, with the necessary treatments. They eat bacon practically all year long, which is maybe not the best treatment for heart and blood, but please don't try to tell them anything about cholesterol. They won't understand, will be offended, and will give you another glass of tzuica to forget and burn the fat! The dishes here are fat, spicy and tasty. They use also some vegetables, milk and eggs. The soups are being soured with cabbage and spiced with tarragon. An important thing here are the sauces, consisting on onions with flour. Smoked products are also another issue, used even in the soups. Cabbage a la Cluj is a renowned local speciality, consisting of cabbage combined with rice and mincemeat (add a glass of half dried red wine)

Wine tasting by Tulcea, paired with spicy goat cheese and salad

Totally different is the kitchen from Dobrogea, with strong oriental Turkish influences, but the local conditions played also an important role. They use there oil and butter, and the meals don't fall so bad like in Transilvania. They use also sheep and fish, even pig, but never pig fat for cooking. During the hot season they eat very light, mainly salads, with a glass of cold sweat wine, e.g. Chardonnay from Murfatlar.

The hidden secrets of the Romanian Bran Castle


Going from Pitesti to Brasov (Kronstadt), only 30 km away from the last mentioned city, you can see the huge Bran castle, who was guarding  once, a few centuries ago, the passing from Wallachia to Transilvania. Anyway, please keep in mind that bran means gate, as translated from the Slav language.

Certificated mention of the Castle Bran apear first at 1470, within the Court documents of the Romanian ruler Basarab Laiota. The fortress of Bran was at that time at another location, beyond the pass, towards Transilvania. It was first build in wood, and later replaced by the German saxons with a stone one, when they first settled here, under the King Lodovic of Hungary. By the end of the XVth century another king simply sells the castle to the city of Brasov. Because the custom was next to it, this is going to be a good business for the city of Brasov, lasting up to 1836, when the customs moves to Giurala, and the place decays, losing its wealthy times

Detail map of the Bran Rucar pass

At 1st December 1920, by celebration the first Romanian National Day, Brasov City Council donates the Bran Castle to the Romanian Queen Maria, as a reward and recognition of the Royal contribution to the achievement of the Big Union. Afterwards, the Czech architect of the Royal Court, Carol Liman transforms the castle into a splendid summer residence. The Principess Ileana inherites the Castle Bran from his mother Queen Mary in 1938, and will be his master up to 1948, when the new communist regime nationalized it.

The respected Queen Mary passed the way in Pelisor, in 1938, and her last wil was that his heart shall be conserved and kept in Balcic. When the Southern Dobrogea and Balcic gone to Bulgaria after WWII, the clever Princess Ileana took her mother's heart from Balcic and hidden it inside a stone of Bran Castle. The heart was kept in a wonderful silver box with 307 precious stones. In 1971 the priceless artifact has been moved to the Bucharest National History Museum. Nowadays it is back to Bran, resting finally after so many events.

In the park of Royal Bran Castle you can pretend for a few moments  being a Royal highness.

In the communist times the Bran Castle has been a few decades neglected, but nowadays, after restauration works, it shows again to the enthusiastic visitors its best face. Before visiting the Castle, have please a long walk ito the park, pretending to be the King and the Queen. Please behave yourself in the best possible way, a full country has big expectations for you. Observe in the park the Village Museum, with old houses from Wallachia, made of wood, and discover the fantastic popular technologies of wood and wool working. Inside the castle enjoy the Medieval Art Exhibition, and take a look through the special narrow openings for the archers! Don't miss the Museum of Medieval Custom, opened in 1987, illustrating the diversity of the wares circulating between Wallachia and Transilvania. Also, lots of other documents, maps, measuring instruments, transportation middles etc. For the souvenirs hunters, you can find enough to the main entrance, but most of them are bind to Dracula, who stayed only one night to the Bran Castle.

In summer you can walk and climb the mountains in the neighborhood  and discover breathtaking landscapes with amazing villages

Eating and lodging in the neighborhood  you can find a lot in Moeciu (many smaller or bigger family pensions), or further in Brasov. In summer you can climb the spectacular mountains around, discovering amazing villages of Sirnea, Moeciu, Fundata, Rucar. A lot of work to do for you, dear friends, let me know about your travel planning in the area!

Most important things to do in Northern Romania

In the Romanian province of Bucovina, District Suceava, very close to the Ukraina border, you have a lot of things to and to discover.
 A good possibility is staying in Suceava with its good hotels, and exploring every day, a bigger or smaller neighboring area. Don't think now to Maramures and Satu Mare, nevertheless they are also in the extreme North of Romania. Now we shall be focused on Bucovina.

Observe please the hills and the mountains, making this area so beautiful and picturesque. The villages seem to be rich, the houses are big. Traditions are well kept and the rural society seems to be still o.k.! Don't miss in one day of your holidays in the area the black pottery of Marginea, which is very cute and has a long tradition.

On the day when you are going to visit the Putna Monastery, allow yourself some extra hours for an instructive trip to Radauti. The town of Radauti is easy accessible through a wide plain, the only one proper plain in the hilly Bucovina! A few centuries ago Radauti was an interesting ethnic mix, counting Romanian, Germans, Jews, Polish and other nationalities.

The St Nicholas Church of Radauti, nowadays the Metropolitan cathedral

Radauti has been for centuries an important trade point, which is still today, despite the huge difference comparing to the prosperous Suceava, the local star and capital. Radauti hosted even an important Orthodox archbishop, but faced many internal and fratricide fights, making it to decay a little, for the profit of Suceava.

If you arrive in Radauti at noon, or at night, it is the right time to do a culinary trip to restaurant Nordic, asking about Lidia Sticlet. I hope she is still there, at her leading place, and will strive to fill the most bizarre and cosmopolitan culinary wishes (nevertheless, she has a soft spot for the Romanian national meals, like cabbage rolls, with a half dry white wine).

The ancient Bogdana Monastery, build by the grounders of the Moldavian dynasty, namely bogdan I, which is burried here.

If you enter the town at other moment of the day, start your cultural trip from the very centre, with the Etnographic Museum. You will be able to understand better afterwards the rich long history of the town, as also the agricultural civilization of the area. Observe and admire the rich collections of wooden icons, sledges or horse wagons made by the local craftsmen, as also other agricultural  tools widely used in the area. The objects concerning the Hutzuls are of the utmost importance, because this mystery civilization is really fascinating. No one was able to answer to the simple question " Where come the Hutzuls from?". But they do exist in many remote villages, are Orthodox of the ancient calendar an their mainly occupations are shepherds and horse keeping ( they breed a special art of horses, also known as Hutzul, which is huge and strong).

The Etnographic museum from Radati is a good starting point for your trip in this area

Walk further on the streets of Radauti, towards Jewish temple, build at 1876. Very intrepid bankers, trade agents or industrials, the Jews build schools, hospital, temples, and even an establishment for old people! The Jews started to come by the end of the XVIIIth century, and were forced to leave the city in 1941, when the German troops occupied the town. Very few people escaped the Holocaust, and consequently nowadays there are very few people of this ethnic group in the town (mainly old people).

Next comes the Orthodox church of St. Nicholas, which is really an important worship building with big dimensions and interesting architecture. Next to St Nicholas church you may see Catholic or Lutheran churches, which belonged once to the German colonists, brought by the Austrian administration of Bucovina. They were craftsmen, skilled glass blowers, bricklayers, carpenters as also army officers or official clerks. But a visit in Radauti is not complete without seeing the Bogdana Monastery. Its very old and very simple, without the normal signs of importance and opulence of a Royal church. The Bogdana monastery looks simply like a peasant house, with a round pointed roof. Thick walls, no towers, these are other characteristics of this amazing church. For a history or culture freak is simply a must, because here is buried Bogdan, the first ruler of Moldavia, who reached the area coming by horse from Maramures with an important suite.