Epic stories about the inhabitants of the Danube Delta

Once arrived in the Danube Delta you might try visiting it off the beaten path. O.K., your choice, your risks. Without joking anymore, it could be a good idea, if you don't forget these tips!

In order to visit Delta in its depths and to discover all its secret, try to stay close to the people, the amazing locals. Take a regular ship from Tulcea in any direction, and start observing discretely the inhabitants. They are all fishermen, but I am sure that you can make the necessary distinction between the locals and the visiting fishermen!The locals won't wear fancy  suits, they have worked hands and a special look. They seldom go out shopping, only the really necessary things.

No local has car, would be useless, but all of them have boats

Since a few decades the population of Danube Delta is practically the same. They really love their places, otherwise won't stay here. This territory is one of the thinniest populated in Romania and Europe, nevertheless human settlements have been for milleniums here, remember Tulcea or Sulina, as the most important representatives. But along the years many other simply vanished, leaving behind some amazing ruins and monuments. The water had no mercy at all and gulped down many artifacts.

Locals (Lipovans) fishing in the Danube Delta

The locals of Danube Delta are one of the most important assets and attractions of the area. Their look and daily life are absolutely amazing. Most of them are very strong and tall, it is a basic condition for surviving. The men usually wear huge beards and spend most of their lives in the boats, searching for fish to make a living. Their stories, myths and legends are tighten to the river and fishing adventures (don't bother believing them, just pretend, as otherwise you can offend them). They are perfectly mastering the canoes or Kayaks, and some of them became renowned sportsmen and recordmen, e.g. Ivan Patzaichin, a Romanian legend living in Bucharest now.

You will appreciate at once, from the first sight, the uncomplicated way of the locals. They are really charming, due to their optimism and hospitality. Staying by them is an event and an honor you can refuse. Don't go there with empty hands: a bottle of strong alcoholic drink (vodka or brandy) will be the most welcomed present, together with cigarettes. And thus you will get a fantastic fish soup, secret recipes, with few different species, bigger or smaller, depending on the last captured prey.

Lucky skilled people get the deserved result of their  fantastic work

But who are these amazing people and where did they come from? If you were an outlaw, would go to idea that Danube Delta is the perfect hiding place. Remote villages, difficult communications, seldom policemen. Most of the locals came here as fugees, and the most important community is the Lipovans'. They had to live Russia by the beginning of the XIXth century due to strong confessional repressions. They are actually orthodoxe of the old communion, keeping on the Julian's calender. They are blond, strong and tall, and speak perfectly Romanian, but also a sort of Russian among them. You can find them all over Danube Delta, in Ilgani, Rosu, Ceatalchioi or Rosetti, Chilia etc. They build their houses from mood and wood, cover with bulrush. These houses are not supposed to hold a life, as these harsh locals are used to build more houses in a life. The houses are not very rich, but clean and well kept.

If you are a fisher they will adopt you at once, taking with them to the daily fishing. Please observe carefully, even note, and learn, as they are are really masters with a huge knowledge and unbelievable stories, far beyond your imagination. As a wine afficionado I had no easy task here, but I managed doing good friend among these excellent people you can rely on.

Most important things to know about Danube Delta

Old and new are perfectly mixing in Danube Delta. It is actually the newest land in Europe, but hosts some old antique cities and fortress, e.g. Tulcea or Sulina. Danube Delta is a huge overwhelming surface of soil and water mixing perfectly, but also fighting one against others. Add the fire put often by the locals in Autumn in the reed fields to get better pieces of land and you have all the elements.

Danube Delta is really amazing and impressive through its unbelievable landscapes, rich flora and fauna with many endemic or endangered species. It is the biggest in Europe, if we forget the Volga's, and simultaneously one of the most original, spectacular and richest in the all world. You simply can't neither call it land, is it actually a huge marsh; nor you can't call it water, as all the lakes are covered with vegetation. And this vegetation is so rich, genuine and divers, almost tropical, making it totally unusual for Romania. Call it simply Danube Delta, it is an amazing paradise, half water, half land with a rich network of main arms and small channels. From time to time or in a few places you can find water lilies, if you are lucky enough, or pelicans or other rare species.

Tulcea is one of the best starting places in your Delta discovery trip

Before giving birth to its wonderful Delta, the Danube travels in all Europe almost 4000 km. Its journey starts in Germany, from an unsignificant water source. It goes through many countries and three interesting European Capitals: Vienna, Budapesta and Belgrade. You can cruise the Danube all along, there are a few company offering such tours, but if have not so much time to your disposal, go and see at least the Danube Delta. You can do it on a budget or in style, but you must simply do it, all your efforts will be rewarded beyond your imagination.

Most of the Danube Delta is actually a depression, subject to massive flood in Spring. Totally conventional and for scientific purposes, we make a difference between the river Delta, and the maritim Delta, according to the most influential elements. A demarcation line between these areas is Letea-Caraorman-Crasnicol-Perisor. The depression lies at 0,3 meters bellow the sea level, and is dotted with higher pieces of land, actually fixed or floating islands. On the Letea island the landscape is almost alien, due to the sand dunes gathered by the strong winds and then covered with rich vegetation. Unusual Mediteran species live in perfect harmony with the local oak.

The Letea  forest is one of the best kept protected area inside Danube Delta

The real master of the Danube delta are not the tourists, as you might think, but the birds! More than 300 species, very difficult to name and recognize for a city freak live here all year long or only the half of it. Observe and visit  inside the Danube Delta, which is totally a recognized natural reserve the protected area of the already above mentioned Letea forest, or Rosca-Buhaiova-Hrecisca, and also the notorious nesting or passing areas for the birds.

Pelicans in the Danube Delta are a must see, you are going to find and discover them for sure.

You can reach the Romanian Danube Delta by air, landing in Tulcea, by sea, coming from Constanta, by car in Tulcea etc. Anyway, you must remember: car access is prohibited and almost impossible in mostly all Delta. Whether you arrive by car or by plane in Tulcea, you must make a ship cruise to completely discover and  unveil the secret beauties of the Delta. During the cruise you are going to have an epic wine tasting on the ship, with a few wines from the area.

The best Romanian destinations for the Spring 2013

What is in and what is out in Romania this year? What is on the beaten path and what off? The travel business and environment is very changing and versatile, but I hope to be able making the best recommendations.

Many of these recommendations are based on my experience from 2012 and before, you have the opportunity to take a profit on it, and you are pleased not to miss it. I won't list priced tours at the moment, it shall come  sooner or later, according your specific interests.

1. Urban life in Romania. Even if nowadays only one half  the Romanian population  lives in towns and cities, you can find here wonderful settlements, older or newer. Discover in Bucharest its old downtown with its fantastic entertainment, but don't neglect the cultural life with amazing museums. Please note that Bucharest has been known as the little Paris, and one  lost tradition was the Battle flower on the main avenue. It was very romantic, could be maybe the best idea for Valentine's day. Besides, you are going to have the unique opportunity to visit within this 7 days tour other important Romanian cities like Iassy, Constanta, Craiova,Timisoara, Oradea, Cluj Napoca. My secret insider tip would be to compare all these cities, paying attention to the foreign influences exerted on them!

Casa Bazna is a good place to discover the fortified churches of Transilvania  on a budget, but at excellent quality standards. And is recommended by Karpaten, one of the best travel agencies in the today Romania.

2.Rural life in Romania. The other half of the Romanian population lives to the countryside. It is much more genuine, and the society is clean, unspoiled, yet the people very honest and hard working. The meals taste totally different comparing with what you eat regularly at home, or even in the best Romanian hotels and restaurants. During one unbelievable week we are going to visit amazing Romanian regions like Maramures or Bucovina, Vrancea and Rucar. I will strive personally to stay to the people, and by the people, these cultural exchanges are the most important things for a traveler in my opinion.

You can find in Romania not exclusively orthodox churches and monasteries!

3. Natural life in Romania. We still have a huge potential on this side. Remember Danube Delta, mountains hiking, hunting and fishing. Fantastic possibilities to enjoy life under all its forms. We will hide deep in the nature, escaping the modern civilizations, with a complete detoxification of Internet addiction. If you are a photography freak, this week could be your good one, I can promise fantastic shots, but you can make from this unforgettable trip also a romantic one, maybe for your engagement or honeymoon. I still have some other ideas!

Wine tasting is a normal event during any Romania trip, I won't forget and neglect!

4. Winter sports in Romania are still on, maybe another month. Within 2 weeks will take place in Poiana Brasov an important youth sports  festival, almost comparable to a Winter Olympic Games. But I discovered  since a few weeks another excellent location in Predeal. The snow was perfect, and my hotel, namely Piemonte, a top one, with an excellent report quality/price.

Biertan, in the middle of transilvania, is the best kept fortified church from the  Medium Age.

5.Historic Romania. Discover first, or rediscover, the Romanian orthodoxe churches and monasteries from Bucovina, Oltenia or around Bucharest. And I suggest to try to see also the fortified churches from Transilvania, around Sighisoara and Medias. With the necessary lodging in Hotel Binder Bubi in Sighisoara, with an important mention by the way: if on a budget, stay to Casa Bazna in the village Bazna.

Need your positions and comments about, I can't wait for them!

Best Romanian Champagne and champagne based cocktails

If you are in Romania, a wine land after all, you are supposed to drink the Romanian wines, and I have been trying to convince you about their qualities since one year online and offline. There are for sure between the many Romanian wines something special for the ladies, younger or older. Nevertheless, the ladies don't give happy so easily, they need sparkling wines, they need Champagne.

You can find in Romania exquisite local sparkling wines, also known as Champagne. There are many legends  about champagne, one of them is simply fantastic: the french king Louis XIVth and his favorite glassware designer set the wonderful form of the Champagne cup based on the perfect breast of the fascinating Marie Antoinette.

The small town of panciu, also known as the town among the  vineyards

A good Romanian Champagne is Zarea, but a much better one is Panciu. Panciu lies 25 km away fro, Focsani, not far from Odobesti, on the Wine road as described before. The company Veritas lead by Mr Adrian Toma is a big wine producer, but also an important Champagne producer. Despite the huge marketing difficulties, which forced them to reduce production, they are still on the market. You can take part there to a wine tasting, while your beloved half can take part to a Champagne tasting (three sorts available). Believe me, it is better not to interfere during these very pleasant moments. Besides, it is the best possible foreplay! You can prove by yourself, and your wife will also be able to confirm, the Champagne from Panciu is better than Zarea, but very difficult to get in Romania. It is practically not to find in any supermarket, as the production is not big enough to cover the growing demand. Once there in Panciu, please use the opportunity to take more bottles with you, making your wife very happy!

general manager of veritas Panciu, Mr Adrian Toma, working in the caves of Stephen the Great

The General Manager Adrian Toma allows the bottles of Champagne to maturate one year long in the historic caves of Stefan cel Mare/ Stephen the Great. They do a good job there, let youself convince, don't need to believe me! The same Adrian Toma gave me a pic, remembering a legendary Champagne based cocktail, called Air Mail. When this cocktail was created at 1949 the Air mail was the fastest and safest way to send your letters; in the same way this excellent combination will tranfer you in another Universe. Nowadays we could name it rather email!

But, in order to be shortly and get the to the point, in the same way this cocktail does, take please 150 ml Brut Champagne; 60 ml golden rum; 1 spoon honey and 15 ml lime juice. Mix first in the shaker a few ice cubes, the lime juice, the rum and the honey. Pour this mix in a Collins glass, and don't dare to filtrate. Complete with the Champagne, and enjoy.

The wine road from Focsani

It is an unbelievable wonderful weather at this moment in Focsani, and I must prepare the new spring season. It is very easy at 10 degrees Celsius and I am very optimist about it. For the wine addicted, I will renew the offer from former year, starting with the convincing Big Romania Wine Tour, a success program.

The trip along the Wine Road starts in Focsani

The Vrancea district, whose residence is in Focsani, is very well renowned for its huge neverending vineyards, one of the most important regional landmarks. It is actually the biggest surface of vineyards among other Romanian districts, as one of the biggest wine production. Unfortunately, other regional vineyards like Murfatlar or Cotnari, enjoy a better marketing and selling policy, but Vrancea never gives up! The vineyards are shared between more or medium sized farms, and thus everybody wins!The many and spectacular wine tastings on the way will delight you for sure, if you understand all about this fascinating branch and area.

Spectacular barracks in Odobesti

In the Wine land there are many wine roads, I personally selected one variant. We start from Focsani and travel up to Andreiasu, through Odobesti-Vartescoiu-Brosteni-Mera-Reghiu. From the many vineyards from the area we can select a few for tastings, but we could select much more. The trip is not very long, lasting a day, even if you ride the bike instead driving. Leave the town of Focsani through its Cotesti neighborhood, and discover first the village of Campineanca. Its existence is tighten with the Romanian Unification from 1859, when Wallachia united with Moldavia. The border was in this area and after is disappearance, the guardians from the both sides took the decision of setting this village. There are three churches in Campineanca, and in the center you can discover a small monuments for the people who falled during WWI.

Please observe the barrels/bariques, every household has many of them in Odobesti and on the Wine road.

Almost without notice you got the village of Unirea(Patesti), outskirt of Odobesti. please notice the vineyards stretching all over the horizon, and proof again manner and patience, before the wine tasting from Odobesti, in the Dyonyssos caves. Unirea was for the first time mentioned in a written document at 1684. Everything in the area is tighten to wine, which is the main occupations of the locals. They simply love the wine, enjoy life, and can speak uninterrupted about their fantastic product. Two important local sorts are Sarba and Galbena (Yellow), they are unique here and you can't find them anywhere else. Don't forget to ask about them, even by the tasting. Or rather don't, the host will be able to speak for hours about.

Magura Hill is the highest in Romania

Very close to Odobesti (10 km away) is the highest hill in Romania. Magura Odobestilor is rather a mountain through its altitude of 100 meters, but a hill through its structure and neighborhood. Climbing it is not very difficult, but requires skills and training, and last a few hours. Once on the top, the perfect reward: excellent panoramic viewto 10-20 kilometers. You can imagine the strategic importance of this point for military observation during the heavy fights from the WWI given in the neighborhood! On another hill, next to the town of Odobesti, namely Sarba, have been found pottery fragments from the La Tene culture (200 b.C). Already during Middle Age Odobesti has been known as a leading vineyard in Moldavia. An interesting place is the Cross Church, founded by the traders' guild.

Very close to Odobesti is the village Vartescoiu, another one dedicated to the wine, with many farms and caves. Nowadays it became an outskirt of Odobesti and simply lives in its shadow. On the same way, discover a similar village, Faraoanele, whose name has a wonderful legend. When the Turks were ruling Moldavia, and the collectors came gathering the debts, in Faraoanele no one could give much due a dramatic water shortage. Very disappointed, yet upset, they found two wonderful young girls, having the saving idea to send the girls to the sultan's khareem. But all the locals protested, and the two girls escaped somehow. The both girls' name was Oana, and in Romanian the village name means "No Oana".

A few kilometers further discover the village Mera with its old fortified monastery. From now on the roads are not easy accessible and not practicable after heavy rains. But the landscapes are more spectacular and genuine. Notice in Andreiasu the "Living Fire", caused by a gas emanation, which permanently burns. There are possible many itineraries in these area, but only possible as walking tours.

Fantastic places in Buzau and around

The city of Buzau counts even in the Romanian consciousness rather as an industrial city, than a touristic or cultural one. Which is not fair at all, and I am going to prove it!

Only 100 km away from Bucharest, Buzau is one of the oldest Romanian cities, with many significant trade privileges dating from centuries ago. The first name of the city and the river, you really can't separate them, was Mousaios, as it appears in official documents from the IVth century, kept in the Vatican archive. One of the most interesting story about Buzau is tighten to "The hen with golden chickens", which is an impressive gold thesaurus lieing today in the Romanian National History Museum from Bucharest. It was discovered during ordinary digging works on the hill Istrita by Buzau, when the people was searching stones for building the Orthodox Seminary. The discoverers did not notice its huge value, it is the richest thesaurus found before Tutankhamon's one! Consequently, according to a local legend, one of the discoverer asked the blacksmith to fix a gate hinge with the help of a small piece from the Thesaurus. The people first hide all the pieces, fearing the authorities, courses etc., but sell the treasure to a local entrepreneur, who sells it to a Bucharest jeweler. Very soon the authorities became aware about the huge value of the treasure, and take measures against all  the involved persons, who die shortly afterwards. The Thesaurus have been more times restored and copied; nowadays the original is in the Bucharest Museum above mentioned, and one of the copies in the local History Museum. When German troops invaded and conquered Romania in WWI the original, together with other valuable pieces, has been evacuated in Moscow, and this one is among the few pieces coming back.

The original thesaurus from Pietroasa/Buzau in the Romanian national History Museum

The oldest house of the city, called Vergu-Manaila, is nowadays an Ethographic Museum, and constitutes one of the most important things to see in Buzau. Another one is the Mayor's Palace, a charming building, older than 100 years, still in use, whose exquisite architecture is to observe, notice and wonder.

Now you may to leave Buzau towards Brasov, through the mountains, but you don't need to hurry up. One of the most important things to observe during this trip, its mainly highlight, are the people living in all the villages on the way. Traditional and genuine, they are very friendly and welcoming, and is very easy setting contact with them. You can use every little opportunity for that, and you won't be disappointed. They are wise, know many things, and share them gladly with you! Besides, the fantastic landscapes you will meet. First, observe the huge, neverending Romanian plain, turning soon to hills or even mountains. On the way the most important thing to see is the Siriu Dam and lake. It is really huge and spectacular, and almost natural ( at least the locals name it like that). Actually, there is no a huge concrete dam, as you could expect and find in other places in Romania. The dam consists on rocks, put on a former hill, making it bigger and higher. All the construction looks pretty discrete, a small hill stopping the river. There are many pensions in the area, you can hike and climb these mountains for days and weeks, enjoying the unspoiled nature. While you travel, be very careful in summer about rocks fall after heavy rains!

Epic monasteries by Bucharest

Supposing you are in Bucharest for a few days. You met the wonderful city with its hotels, restaurants, squares, monuments, museums etc. You are also sick on clubbing and dating,partying and drinking, you are not in the mood, or not so young anymore.

Now you need a relaxing day, only for yourself, which should also mean some action and is also supposed to  enrich yourself, from a spiritual point of view. Sending you again to a few orthodox monasteries does not mean that I wanna convert you. I respect very much other religions and beliefs, and the Romanian are also open minded and tolerant. Only stupid people are extremist and not able to understand the next of them embracing other convictions. I will propose you three monasteries very close to Bucharest. The selection is totally personal, based on my personal knowledge and experiences I had in the Romanian capital.

The huge Victory square mirrors all the city of Bucharest through the style mix of neighboring buildings

But, first of all, before leaving the proud city of Bucharest, please go to the Victory Square/Piata Victoriei where this tour starts. The Victory Square is a little miniature copy of the big city, and mirrors its eclectic, but charming mix of architecture styles. Please find and observe on one side the Residence of the Romanian Government, build at 1937, which looks over the all country with a strong disciplining eye. Nowadays the doubtless master there is the young unexperienced Victor Ponta, but this situation could change very quickly. Nomine odiosa, as the old  Latins used to say, and I only mention this already unpopular name just to remember him to stop being arrogant and self sufficient. on another side there are three museums one next to other. The oldest is Natural History Museum, named Grigore Antipa, its founder. It dates back from the XIXth museum. Last, but not least, on a side of the Square there are relatively new blocks of flat, 30-40 years old.

The Cernica monastery, by Bucharest, is a peace island, very close to the overcrowded  city

But let's finally leave the city, forgetting it, despite its secret magnetism. Drive first towards Constanta, and sop after only a few kilometers (or miles, o.k., I am a tolerant Romanian) and discover the Cernica Monastery, a place where many inhabitants of Bucharest go very often and are very happy doing that. Its picturesque position might be an explanation, there is an island of joy and peace, and has a lake next to it. Cernica is, of course, the name of his founder, in the first decades of the XVIIth century, namely the Governor Stirbei Cernica. There are actually three churches inside the monastery, which have been build successively during the XVIIIth century.

The caldarusani monastery might be almost impossible to pronounce, but is really wonderful and spectacular.

Not far away (nevertheless remember to be in an overcrowded big city, strangled by traffic jams), you may discover an older but nicer monastery, namely Caldarusani. Bag you pardon for the impossible pronouncing and orthoepy  of this Romanian word, name it as you wish if is easier and more convenient to you. Just don't forget to visit it, it is your time worth.

Last, but not least, The Comana Monastery, 30 km away from Bucharest. According the local legends, it has been build by the ruling prince Vlad The Splinter, also known as Dracula (due to Bram Stoker is the most notorious Romanian all times!). New archaeological diggings and discoveries have totally confirmed this legend! Nevertheless, stop dreaming to find something very spectacular tighten to Dracula in this monastery, there are other places living on the myth!

Comana Monastery was build by Vlad Tepes, according a  verified  local legend