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vineri, 25 ianuarie 2013

Most epic markets and monuments in Bucharest


Bucharest is a city with a strong personality, acquired during its long history. Once named The Little Paris, as the elites and aristocracy have been educated in France, its iconic downtown reminds in many places of this first love of the Romanians.

Walking, riding or driving on the iconic Boulevard Regina Elisabeta and observing its amazing old houses, you feel already in a strange atmosphere fin de siecle. In the square C.A.Rosetti, former prominent Romanian politician, it is a monument dedicated to the master, creation of the German architect W.C. Hegel. The statue is a masterpiece itself, showing a big artistic intrinsic value. All the traces of his face are perfectly designed and engraved, and the honored wears a fancy suit (for that time) and trench coat over it. The bas-reliefs on the statue show the crucial moments of the Romanian history where he was present and took part   very actively (the Unification from 1859 and the Declaration of Independence in 1877).
Monument of C.A Rosetti, prominent Romanian politician of the XIXth century

Not far from  it, one of the strangest building and museum of Bucharest: The Fire Tower/Foisorul de Foc. Nevertheless, remember that during the Middle age the houses of Bucharest where mostly build on wood, and the city falled more times victim to devastating fires. Nowadays, the building can seem weird and useless, but has a big emotional value. You can visit inside the special Museum of Firemen, with interesting data and tools.
The square  Pache Protopopescu and the controversial fountain

Observe in the area the Boulevard Pache Protopescu, a residential area. Pache Protopescu was the mayor of the city, which used to have a statue in the square Pache Protopescu. Unfortunately, the statue disappeared, but you can see a nice fountain instead. many people would love having back the statue of the former Mayor, destroyed by the communists when they took over in 1948.

Now please turn around and direct towards Piata Romana, or the Roman Square, a good name to underline the Roman origin and sympathies of the Romanian people. France has been looked for long time as the older  Latin sister, and you will notice for sure many similarities its rich culture. In the Roman Square observe the statue the Capitol Wolf, o copy of the original one located in Rome.
The original of Lupa capitolina is in Rome. The Bucharest's Lupa Capitolina  is one of the most nomadic city statues, and changed its location many times. Meanwhile is already removed from Piata Romana.

Observe now carefully the square, and on one of its sides The  Economy High School, a nice old building, with an ornamental ball on it. There is a wonderful underground legend about, and I wonder if is convenient or corect unvealing it to you, but we are grown up, I hope, and it is not such a bad history. According this myth, when the first student girl shall finish the High School as a virgin, the ball will fall down. 80 years after the inauguration of the building the ball is still sitting there!










sâmbătă, 22 decembrie 2012

Short trips from Bucharest 


During your longer or shorter stay in the Romanian Capital you have so many possibilities for entertainment, visiting museums, parks, having sophisticated dinners in fancy restaurants, etc. You can discover your own Bucharest, as it is really charming and has something for everyone!

Supposing nevertheless that you have the time and the mood for leaving shortly the huge city, you have also many options. City breaks in Ploiesti or Brasov could be a solution; also Pitesti, Buzau, Focsani, Galati or Braila will welcome you. But I have another propositions for you: visit a royal, refined and mystery palace, only a few kilometers away, namely in Mogosoaia.
The former ruler of Wallachia, Constantin Brancoveanu, was  a skilled diplomat, an art freak, who enjoyed wine and parties very much.

The position of the palace is breathtaking: in the middle of a huge picturesque possession with forest, park and lake, telling a secret story about an important Romanian ruler from XVIIth century. His name was Constantin Brancoveanu, and he was born at 1654, in an old aristocratic family. He was a gold and book prince, an excellent diplomat, enjoyed wine and parties (like many other Romanians). He has been also a Macchiavelli  disciple and follower, as an athlet Christi. . Due to his building and achievements,his complicated temper and tragic faith, he is the essence of the Romanian Renaissance. He succeeded to keep 25 years of peace, which was a good period for arts, crafts and everyday life. He even developed a personal architectural style, Brancoveanu style, present in many places of Romania.
The wonderful, yet mystery, Romanian Palace of Mogosoaia,  build in the Romanian Renaissance style

But the most important and iconic place for the Brancoveanu style is even the above mentioned Palace of Mogosoaia. The rich Brancoveanu bought Mogosoaia  at 1702, ordering immediately building of a smaller Versailles and parallel Royal court over there. For visiting the Mogosoaia Palace head first to Targoviste, but stop in the village Mogosoaia, and discover the Palace by walking.  Observe first the large shadowing alley bordered by big chestnut tree, and enter the left church, watching on the walls a painting of Brancoveanu and his family.
The Royal church from the left still hosts paintings of Constantin Brancoveanu and  his family

After balancing long time between the big powers around (Turks, Russians, Austrians) he was executed by the Turks at 1712 in Istanbul. The Turks asked him first to convert to Islam, but he refused, and was executed with his four sons together. History is so cruel and unfair sometimes! His sudden exile and decapitation let opened many speculations about its wealthy treasure, which has been not found up today, despite all the desperate searches, similar with Dracula's. Maybe you will be the lucky one!

After his tragic death, The Palace of Mogosoaia decayed and ruined, until 1912 when another Prince, Bibescu, decides to restaurate the palace, according to original plans and indications. We owe him the today aspect of Mogosoaia! The Palace itself is big, strong, but its lines are in a perfect harmony. On the ground floor, eight rooms for the servants, and at the first floor, the Royal flat and the huge Council room. On the side with lake view, observe what is maybe the most interesting thing in the all palace: A SUPERB BALCONY, VERY INTERESTING AND REFINED, a real oasis of rest and contemplation.

marți, 27 noiembrie 2012

The best restaurants in Bucharest


If you know very good yourself and you are aware of your tastes (which you really should), Bucharest has for sure something for you. There are so many restaurants in Bucharest, it is simply impossible not to find the right one for you!
If you are on the go, take a satisfactory meal in a popular restaurant, e.g. Springtime

First, let's see what is your favorite kitchen. Due to the many expats from Bucharest, there are a selected brunch of restaurants catering at high quality levels in a foreign style: oriental, Lebanese,French, Italian,Hungarian etc. Nevertheless, stay to the Romanian Kitchen, I recommend it from the heart, and it is really normally to be set on this kitchen, because it is an intrinsic part of Romania. And there is another advantage, a major one, at the popular restaurants you can find the house wine, unbottled, but a very good one, at an excellent report quality/price. Also, if you are lucky enough, you will find the offer of the day (look after Meniul zilei) , which means a three course menu for 4-5 Euros. Really a bargain, but at the rush hours these restaurants are overcrowded with students, of course! Discover please the hidden restaurant Gara Lipscani, while having a walk in the old downtown on Lipscani street. You will find there a relaxed atmosphere and a wide assortment of salads, grills etc!
A student cosy atmosphere and a good Romanian kitchen in Gara Lipscani

Also to visit for a frugal meal, Spring Time, in the center, near University, on Academy street, or in the Railway station. Very beloved among students, you can eat very good and very cheap pizza, salad, deserts, and even shaowarma.
Carul cu bere on Stavropoleos street is really special

 If you are not necessary on a budget, visit the exquisite Carul cu Bere, which is traditionally the meeting point of the local intelighentsia since 100 years. It has interesting Neogothic interiors and glassworks, and the prices are still democratic. The kitchen is also excellent, but you need a prior reservation, otherwise is difficult to get a table.
Casa Doina is one of the most exquisite locations in Bucarest

Enjoy further the tasty juicy Romanian kitchen in some exquisite location, e.g in House Doina, on Kiseleff street. The house hosting you is totally special, from 1889, and represented Romania to a Paris exhibition. Excellent careful service, and exquisite Romanian kitchen, really at its best. A good place for celebrations, special invitation, etc.

Maybe I should stop the list, as I am terrible hungry. I will try today a good portion of beans with sausages, enjoying also a good glass of exquisite wine ( Grasa de Cotnari, a half dried white). Cheers.

miercuri, 14 noiembrie 2012

The secret charm of Bucharest


The Romanian Capital stretches on a huge neverending plain, the Romanian plain. Neither spectacular rivers, nor hill or mountains are able to put the big city in good light, and thus it is so easy to dislike this balcanic capital, with its sufferings, traffic jams, with its buildings which never matches to the neighborhood. To discover the secret charm of Bucharest you need some patience, a good guide and the right weather! If all these preconditions are filled, Bucharest will seduce you, there is no chance to escape. The city's museums, monuments, fountains and exceptional churches, as also the neoclassic palaces are able to satisfy any art freak. The collector of living human canvas will be also a victim of Bucharest spell.
The many pubs and restaurants in Downtown/centrul vechi are very fashioned  and thus  overcrowded day and night

An area of Bucharest who will definitely fascinate is the historic centre of Bucharest, as described in the Architectural Tour of Bucharest. There are many hidden places in this area, and also some interesting places which you can simply go by, without noticing their mysterious charm.  This area stretches between dambovita, Calea Victoriei, University and the Boulevard Ion I.C. Bratianu. The modern Piata Unirii is a kind of City Center, and not far away, in the St George market is actually the Kilometer zero of Romania (all the road distances are measured starting from this point). The high sad blocks of flats on the Boulevard Ioan I.C. Bratianu are only hiding the Historical Centre, with its eclectic architecture. You will remark and recognize Bauhaus, rococo and baroque style, (no Gangnam style in the architecture, please). 

Since a few years the area is again in!. In fashion, I mean. It is covered with many clubs and pubs, where you can dance the Gangnam style. This area was populated a few centuries ago by skilled traders from Balkans, Central Europe and Armenia, which build houses in different styles. Then emerged the motels and businesses. One of the main streets in the area, Lipscani, has a name of a very interesting origin: Lipsca is in Romanian the German city of Leipzig , and the traders settled on this street. Gabroveni is another street in Bucharest downtown; here lived the fabrics traders from Gabrovo, Bulgaria.
Restaurant from Pasage Vilacross

Observe the old buildings, and think to their long history, starting at least in 1840 and to the many fires and earthquakes they got to face! On the street Hanu cu tei there is a nice art gallery, but also some fancy boutiques, and the street Sticlary means glass producers.

This downtown is an area of contrasts: old fashioned boutiques, street vendors, gipsies houses are next to fancy clubs, designed by vogue artists, resulting an unforgetable atractiv mix. 

Don't miss, please on Lipscani street the respectful building of Romanian National Bank, where you can borow some money if the locals seem to expensive to you. You may also not to miss the rounded building of Tehnoimport on Doamnei street (the name means Lady, and refers to the wife of the Prince Serban Cantacuzino, who build the Biserica Doamnei!)

Also important, The Stavropoleos Church, a typical orthodoxe one, maybe even a little too decorated and artficial. And the last hit is the picturesque glass-covered Pasaj Macca-Vilacross, offering at any day or night hour a strange atmosphere.


duminică, 4 noiembrie 2012

The most important things to know about the Bucharest fountains


Every  fountain, including the little ones, keeps in it something from the living water source located in the Eden, near the life tree, and promising endless youth,immortality and wisdom. Situated to the gates of the Bible fortresses, the fountains represented not only the vital source of water, but also a place for miracle meetings and new starts.
The Fountains from Piata Unirii are the newest and  most spectacular of Bucharest, build by Ceausescu during his communist regime

Very similar, in the Romanian villages, the fountains always represented an agora, where everybody could meat anyone, exchanging informations. The fountains from the Romanian villages have been also a favorite secret dating place (only at night, of course). Beyond everything else, the fountains keep an unknown relation with the sacred things. An Orthodoxe christening  consists in immersing the crying scared baby in water, while the other ones are very happy. Furthermore, every fountain when is ready to use, is christened by a priest.
The Cantacuzino Fountain from Carol Park is one of the oldest in the today Bucharest

When Bucharest started its history at 1456 was not different than a village. Few centuries latter, after becoming a capital and gaining importance and ambitions, Bucharest started to think deeper to its aspects, including fountains. In Bucharest the monumental fountains appeared even before the statues.

Among the first mentions: the fountains build by the ruler Nicolae Mavrogheni by 1786, at the end of Podul Mogosoaiei (nowadays Calea Victoriei) to the delight of the happy inhabitants. Latter on that place appeared the Kisseleff park. At 1847, on Soseaua Kiseleff, Bibescu voda made the inauguration of His Fountains with many priests, canon fires and military ceremony. It was an art and technique masterpiece, much more advanced compared to other neighborhoods.
The Mine and Stone Careers Fountain lies also in the Carol Park, and was build at 1906

The many fountains and water sources of Bucharest are mentioned in the names of many streets of Bucharest (observe the different names like Putul, Cismeaua, Fantana). Maybe not so spectacular like the fountains of Rome (Fontana di Trevi e.g.), the fountains of Bucharest have a strong long history behind, and there are plans for building in Bucharest the biggest fountain in Europe.

One of the oldest fountains still in use is the Cantacuzino fountain from Parcul Carol I. It was build at 1870 by the former Mayor of Bucharest, latter twice prime minister, George Grigore Cantacuzino, being similar in some aspects white the Medicis Fountain from the Paris' Jardin de Luxembourg. Prior, on that place was another fountain, demolished with that occasion.
The wonderful Miorita Fountain from the Herastrau Park

At 1906, in the same Carol I park, was inaugurated the Mines and Stone Career Fountain. It is a sober simple building from stone blocks, with elements of specific Romanian architecture. The water basin is more elaborated, build in carved stone. Lies upper the Cantacuzino Fountain, towards the Roman Arena.

Carol IInd, son and follower of Carol I, inaugurated the Zodiac Fountain at the main entrance of Carol parc. The fountain was designed by an architect, but the sculptures of zodiac signs belong to another artist, the stone carver Mac Constantinescu.

One of the nicest and most spectacular fountains of Bucharest lies at its Northern entrance, in the Herastrau Park. It was build at 1936 by the architect Octav Doicescu, with carved stones from Milita Petrascu, describing Miorita, a Romanian epic poem. The long renovation from 2000 was successful, keeping the original momentousness and value of this fountain.

Wow, I still have much to say about The Bucharest Fountains, but I will be back soon. Too much water in my opinion, shall also concentrate on wine. Maybe is a good idea organizing wine tasting near a fountain.

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