Epic little towns in the Romanian Bucovina

If you came in Bucovina and stay in Suceava do discover the legendary painted monasteries,

you have the wonderful chance and opportunity to discover a few interesting places, according to your specific interests and hobbies.

You can, e.g. to ride your bike on the hills around, and discover the churches and the villages on slow speed, which I recommended more times. Not far from Suceava, beyond the hills, are the mountains, and you can walking and hiking in these wonderful mountains, watching carefully the the rich world of local plants and animals. For the fans of urban life and civilization I have also some tips. Discover first the city of Suceava, and compare it afterwards with the little towns of Radauti, Gura Humorului, Campulung Moldovenesc, Falticeni or Vatra Dornei. And that's the today issue.

The little town of falticeni, a Romanian Florence. Here the communist blocks of flat

I would propose as a first target the town of Campulung Moldovenesc. It lies at 600 meters height and enjoys an excellent tempered climate. It si very long (good 15 kilometers), as its development has been made along the main road. Very long are here the winters, as also very snow rich, and the summers chilly and rainy. The mountain peaks of Rarau and Giumalau are close to the town, and many hiking paths lead from the town to those peaks. In downtown you can still see some interesting buildings from the Austrian period, before 1918. Shortly, the best conditions to make a good climatic and tourist resort. which Campulung really is. Discover in Campulung Moldovenesc , whose economic life is tighten to the wood, the impressive "Museum of wood crafts". It is old, hosted in a wonderful building, with 10 exhibiting rooms, as also an exhibition outside, under the sky. You will try to imagine how old these artifacts have been used in the area for wood working, hunting and fishing. There is even an amazing horse driven wine barrel (for me the most important piece from the museum, you can bet on it). Outside expo contains two traditional houses, two or three centuries old.

Aerial view of the picturesque Campulung Moldovenesc

Also in Campulung Moldovenesc a private collection, named Ioan Tugui, has an convincing expositions of 5000 wooden spoons, mainly from Bucovina. Besides many carpets, pottery and coins.

Much better renowned in Romania and worldwide is the picturesque town and tourist resort Vatra Dornei, lieing in an breathtaking depression, on a height of 800 meters. The town developed first as an important trade point in the area, on terraces at different levels. All around, small mountains, not higher than 1300 meters, and only 3 months yearly of hot season. If you dream to ski, Vatra Dornei is the right place, with 120 days of snowy days every year. All the mountains around have a volcanic origin, and in the area there are many sources of mineral waters. The downtown Vatra Dornei and mainly the nice Casino are very well kept. Find and discover there the Museum of Natural Sciences, with his Ethnographic or Biology departments. A special mention for the huge Central Park (wider than 50 ha, means aproximately 100 accres). It is protected as a natural reserve, and the squirels in the park are friendly, you may feed them! I reckon, that a good occasion to discover Vatra Dornei could also be the Festival of Winter Traditions, starting on 28th December.

vatra Dornei is a favorite target for ski and winter sports

Last for today, but not least, the town of Falticeni, which is comparable with the Italian Florence, due to the high density of notorious culture people having the roots in the area: Ion Creanga, Mihai Eminescu, Ion Irimescu and many others more. Their presence and relation with Falticeni is remembered in the local Gallery of Important People. 

Falticeni is lower than the other mentioned towns (400 meters) and you can see all around charming orchards. You can discover the local traditions in the best conditions taking part to the local festival, one in Summer, on 20th July, and one in Winter, on the 27th December.

Epic short  trips from Suceava, inside the Romanian Bucovina

If you stay for a few days in the city of Suceava with the main goal to discover the amazing painted monasteries of Bucovina, you can find other places worth a visit.

Discover in Suceava The Armenian Church Hagigadar and observe the architectural differences comparing to an orthodox one: the form is rectangular, and there are no less than three different altars, which is normally for the Armenians. On St Mary's day the people climb the hill where this monastery lie and go three times around, all on their knees. The reward is also consistent, the most ardent wish shall hereby come true!

Not far from Suceava, and thus easy accessible even by bike, are many interesting places! If you leave Suceava for Dragomirna, after visiting the monastery, observe the genuine beech forest around Dragomirna. It is more than 90 % genuine and natural, hosting some animal species (deer, boar, fox, wolf, rabit, savage cat etc. If you are lucky enough, you can also hear a wonderful concert, without paying any tickets, when nightingales and other birds will gather your interest. The trees are old, between 90 and 110 years, and the forest huge, about 200 accres. Drive further towards Siret, and meet in the village Patrauti the church and the natural reserve Quercetum de la Crujana.This forest is much smaller, about 60 accres, but still very impressive. It consists mainly on oak, with a similar rich fauna with the same species.

In Calafindesti, not the forests, but the meadows are the main target. Usually we don't pay much attention to the meadows, but please do an exception  here in Calafindesti. You will observe here for sure the rarely Ligularia Siberica (rare in Romania for sure, and even endemic, in Russia and Siberia is common).  The Ligularia Siberica is here at its south west boundary, and you won't see it in any other place in Romania. Other rare or endemic species are still to be seen in Calafindesti!

Next is the town of Siret and the Ukrainean border. Siret is actually one of the oldest towns in Moldavia, being the first Capital of the Moldavia during Middle Age. At 1388 Siret lost this privilege, and the Capital moved in Suceava. During the Austrian occupation of the XVIIth and XIXth century the town played only trade and crafts functions. Very important was at those times the Jewish population, representing almost the half of the town. Nowadays, after Holocaust and emigration in the communist era, very few Jews are still to find, but you can visit the synagogue and the two Jewish cemeteries. Another must see in Siret is the History museum, ending in 1945, as all the Romanian Museums do!

The Jewish cemetry from Siret, an amazing memento

Another epic trip from Suceava is towards Solca, over Arbore. The village Arbore is really huge, and very picturesque, with well kept traditions. It proudly counts 7000 inhabitants, and you must see there the Village Museum Toader Hrib, which is not very big, but instructive, together with the local church. In Solca you can discover the amazing Peter and Paul church. An outskirt of Solca, namely Cacica, hosts a renowned salt mine, with an unique salt carved chapel (made in 1904). Not less unique are the salt lake, which is not big, but very deep, 38 meters, as the congress room at 44 meters underneath the ground level. If you are a history and art freak, don't miss in Cacica the Catholic church, which is overwhelming through architecture, dimensions and and importance (on the 15th August here takes place the biggest pilgrimage of the catholics in Moldavia.

The catholic church from Cacica is a favorite target for the pilgrimage in Moldavia

May be you are going to love the Romanian history and  geography on this way, but I don't want to abuse of your goodwill! I will continue next time with Vatra Dornei, Falticeni, Campulung Moldovenesc etc
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Traveling in Romania with children

It is not easy to travel with your child, or children , somewhere in the world, and Romania is not excepted. A child can spoil and harm your vacations, but he/she is after all the most important achievement in your life, and consequently you may not neglect him/her!

Romania is for sure one of children friendliest countries on Earth, and this fact has some simple explanations. One generation before, during the Ceausescu communist era, it was the dictator stimulating the birth rate. Abortion were forbidden, contraception tabu, Ceausescu should reign over more and more people. In the factories who used mainly women, from time to time have been organized controls for detecting from the beginning a pregnancy and preventing abortion. Unfortunately, due to the abortions made under improper conditions many women died. Anyway, it was a pride having more children, and the families with children have been intensively supported.

The Pension Confort is very close to Suceava, but very quiet and peaceful, and for sure children friendly

Any bigger or smaller hotel in Romania has a playing ground, where qualified personnel care about you children, if you wanna let them there. Observe also among the all staff a special love and care for children. Even if they have no children, which is uncommon here btw, they are able to find the right behavior for any much or less spoiled children. It is simply amazing, you will see!

I found the best places for traveling with children in Suceava district, and this happened with a little help of the hazard. I thought anyway searching children friendly hotels and pensions in Suceava, because this district has one of the highest birth rate in Romania. It is for sure a tradition here, and Ceausescu came to power in 1965 with a baby boom. It applies also for districts Iasi and Botosani, but I did not find there such  children friendly hotels and pensions yet, I am still searching and will keep you informed.

The pension Casa Vicu from Gura Humorului is in a wonderful neighborhood

The pensions I am going to recommend are not in downtown Suceava, they have own farm, garden and playing grounds. It will be a huge relief for you and your family! Another tip: there are a lot of cows in the area, and the milk products are natural and organic! Also interesting for the adults, not only for children!

Discover at 4 km away from Suceava, in Scheia, the pension Confort, which is rather small (40 places, 20 rooms), familiar and surely children friendly, with sauna, spa and even conference room. You have a bbq where you can even grill yourself, if free and available (pls remember the right pairing of food and wines!). The cooker is good, even excellent in the local meat rolls! From there you can make short trips in Suceava, Radauti and the amazing painted monasteries.

In Gura Humorului I discovered another children friendly pension, namely Casa Vicu. It is even smaller ( 8 rooms) and consequently more familiar, but lacks some amenities comparing to a good hotel or or even with the pension Confort; for your budget is even friendlier  for sure! The neighborhood is amazing peaceful, which made me so enthusiastic about it!

Suceava, the gate to the painted monasteries

Bucovina, the upper northern part of the Romanian Moldavia, is a wonderful hill land,scattered with many painted monasteries build in the middle age, mainly by the well known legendary ruler Stephen the Great (1457-1504).

Suceava Fortress, residence of Stephen the Great and capital of Moldavia

Stephen the Great is still living today, being subject to many jokes, proving his strong influence in all Romanian history. The history fact is that he was an exponent of a new ascending country, namely Moldavia, and he managed to keep a certain independence of Moldavia, despite its many enemies ( Turks, Polish, Hungarians etc). His capital was in Suceava, look anyway for the fortress of Suceava (Cetate).

City Hall from Suceava is a good example of Secession style

The fortress of Suceava is very strong, and from here Moldavia has been ruled for centuries. On unknown reasons, in the XVII th the fortress of Suceava was left and deserted, but even nowadays, after successful restaurations, is very impressive. The walls are 20 meters high and 2 meters thick, and you can try climbing then during your visit (there is a small fee to be paid). From the fortress you have a good sight to the all city, and decide what else to do here.

The interesting railway station from Suceava, in my opinion one of the nicest in Romania

Suceava has today 100000 inhabitants, among them a few Rusians, Ukrainians, Lipovans and Polish (more than 90 % are Romanians). Suceava was a century ruled by the Habsburgic empire, and you can still find some things to remember, e.g. the Catholic Church. Orthodoxes Curches are much more, but you may not miss the Miclauti Church, where for centuries the Moldavia's ruler have been appointed and crowned. Observe there the ingenious positioning of the bell, which is not in a separate tower, but included in the front wall.

The orthodox church of Miclauti, Suceava where for centuries the  Moldavian Rulers have been appointed and crowned

You also can't miss the horse statue of Stephen the Great, dominating the city, and the railway station with its 100 years old architecture, one of the most beautiful in Romania.

Suceava is maybe the only city in Bucovina, and has an important tourist circulation. The offer on hotels and restaurants is wide and generous. I would suggest you Hotel and Restaurant Bucovina, and the restaurant Casa Arcasului, for the good balance quality and price (the both are high end category).

From Suceava you can make daily trips to the painted monasteries, one of the most important things to see in all Romania. But you need nevertheless at least another day to visit Suceava Museums: Ethnography Museum, History Museum, Art Museum. Men, you are going to like and love Suceava for sure.