Epic little towns in the Romanian Bucovina

If you came in Bucovina and stay in Suceava do discover the legendary painted monasteries,

you have the wonderful chance and opportunity to discover a few interesting places, according to your specific interests and hobbies.

You can, e.g. to ride your bike on the hills around, and discover the churches and the villages on slow speed, which I recommended more times. Not far from Suceava, beyond the hills, are the mountains, and you can walking and hiking in these wonderful mountains, watching carefully the the rich world of local plants and animals. For the fans of urban life and civilization I have also some tips. Discover first the city of Suceava, and compare it afterwards with the little towns of Radauti, Gura Humorului, Campulung Moldovenesc, Falticeni or Vatra Dornei. And that's the today issue.

The little town of falticeni, a Romanian Florence. Here the communist blocks of flat

I would propose as a first target the town of Campulung Moldovenesc. It lies at 600 meters height and enjoys an excellent tempered climate. It si very long (good 15 kilometers), as its development has been made along the main road. Very long are here the winters, as also very snow rich, and the summers chilly and rainy. The mountain peaks of Rarau and Giumalau are close to the town, and many hiking paths lead from the town to those peaks. In downtown you can still see some interesting buildings from the Austrian period, before 1918. Shortly, the best conditions to make a good climatic and tourist resort. which Campulung really is. Discover in Campulung Moldovenesc , whose economic life is tighten to the wood, the impressive "Museum of wood crafts". It is old, hosted in a wonderful building, with 10 exhibiting rooms, as also an exhibition outside, under the sky. You will try to imagine how old these artifacts have been used in the area for wood working, hunting and fishing. There is even an amazing horse driven wine barrel (for me the most important piece from the museum, you can bet on it). Outside expo contains two traditional houses, two or three centuries old.

Aerial view of the picturesque Campulung Moldovenesc

Also in Campulung Moldovenesc a private collection, named Ioan Tugui, has an convincing expositions of 5000 wooden spoons, mainly from Bucovina. Besides many carpets, pottery and coins.

Much better renowned in Romania and worldwide is the picturesque town and tourist resort Vatra Dornei, lieing in an breathtaking depression, on a height of 800 meters. The town developed first as an important trade point in the area, on terraces at different levels. All around, small mountains, not higher than 1300 meters, and only 3 months yearly of hot season. If you dream to ski, Vatra Dornei is the right place, with 120 days of snowy days every year. All the mountains around have a volcanic origin, and in the area there are many sources of mineral waters. The downtown Vatra Dornei and mainly the nice Casino are very well kept. Find and discover there the Museum of Natural Sciences, with his Ethnographic or Biology departments. A special mention for the huge Central Park (wider than 50 ha, means aproximately 100 accres). It is protected as a natural reserve, and the squirels in the park are friendly, you may feed them! I reckon, that a good occasion to discover Vatra Dornei could also be the Festival of Winter Traditions, starting on 28th December.

vatra Dornei is a favorite target for ski and winter sports

Last for today, but not least, the town of Falticeni, which is comparable with the Italian Florence, due to the high density of notorious culture people having the roots in the area: Ion Creanga, Mihai Eminescu, Ion Irimescu and many others more. Their presence and relation with Falticeni is remembered in the local Gallery of Important People. 

Falticeni is lower than the other mentioned towns (400 meters) and you can see all around charming orchards. You can discover the local traditions in the best conditions taking part to the local festival, one in Summer, on 20th July, and one in Winter, on the 27th December.

Epic trips in the Romanian Bucovina

As I talled so much about this blessed part of Romania, I propose you now a short trip not far from Suceava, namely from Radauti to Humor(Gura Humorului). If you wanna improve your Romanian knowledge, Humor is the right place! The word has the same meaning as in English, and the people are friendly, joking a lot.

The Monastery from Radauti

Discover in Radauti the impressing Sinagogue, which is really an architectural asset of Radauti, remembering the Holocaust. Further (what means further in a little town with 30 000 people?) discover, walking or riding the bike, the Zoo. It is centered first on the local animals (Bucovina is a paradise for hunters) like bear, fox,wolf, deer, lynx. Besides, exotic species, which are not so easy to keep during the long cold winter, as you can imagine! The people in the area really love animals, and also the domestic ones. It is a tradition for keeping and breeding horses, and you can visit a stud farm just entering the city. For the art freaks, be sure to find an art gallery, mainly contemporary artists.

The Church from Sucevita is one of the illustrated books of the Christianity

Only 5 km away from Radauti is the Putna Monastery. You will most probably cross more times the local train, which is not high speed Inter City, but totally satisfactory for the locals! The location of the Putna monastery has been choosen by the big ruler Stephen the Great, hauling an arrow with his bow! You can see the hill where Stefan cel Mare/Stephen the Great launched his arrow, next to the monastery. The church and the monastery are not so old anymore, due to successive destroying and restorations. Very old and well kept is the Treasure Tower, where the values were hosted during the sieges or surprise attacks. The monastery hosts nowadays the remaining of the big king, with a part of his family, and has a very interesting museum which woth paying a visit anyway. 2 km away is a remarcable place:  the refuge cell of Daniil The Monk, one of the most important adviser of the Moldavian ruler. Observe the sobriety and austerity of his cell (no electric power, no Internet, only worship!)

Spending a night in an insulated cell like this would be the best cure against digital addiction.  Imagine the strength and the strong beliefs of Daniil, the monk living in such conditions for years

 On the way from Radauti to Sucevita allow a break in Marginea, a village with good traditions in the black pottery. When you see first the Sucevita Monastery, it looks like a fortress! They have to do this during those times, you can understand it. These days in the defending walls are the cells and the museum. The church is really spectacular, dedicated to the Resurection Christi, the biggest miracle in the Orthodoxe mythology. Very impressive is the the separating wall, and the exterior painted frescos. Note the Virtue Ladder, or the Jesse's genealogical tree!

Following the direction to Moldovita, don't miss the majestic view from the highest point, The Palm Pass, before reaching and discovering the Moldovita monastery, also looking like a fortress.  Observe in the outside painting something not usual, but easy to explain: the asiege of Constantinoples! The fact is that these painted monasteries were supposed to be living books of the Christianity, with important contributions of spreading the Orthodoxe religion.

Within 30 minutes you can reach the town Gura Humorului, but please observe om your way the amazing villages of Vama, Molid or Frasin, which have and keep very old genuine local traditions. Visit in Humor the renowned Monastery of Voronet, a coronation of your travel through the rich history of the Romanian church. Voronet is surely the peak ( some visitors name it the Sistine Chapel of the East). The colours of the extrior paintings are simply amazing,and you are supposed to observe the blue! The blue of Voronet, actually, which is original, and made based on a secret recipe, probaly with powder of lapiz lazuli!

I am very much afraid of speaking too much. This trip is normally one day long, even by bike, measuring 50 kilometers. And I keep talking and talking! The reality is much better than my description, for sure, you are incited to check up!

Epic trips from Constanta on the Romanian Riviera

Supposing you are on the Romanian seaside for a longer or shorter time, and you must take a break from sun, bathing etc (due to sun burns, bad weather, or simply for changing, or because you want know in depth the cultural Romania). Tell me the scheduled time for your trip, between 1 and three days I suppose!

Well, you have for sure a wide choice. You can go to Tulcea and have a wonderful relaxing ship cruise inside the Danube Delta. You are going to need a good camera, the Delta is a protected natural paradise. You can taste some exquisite wines on the ship even, and you can taste also the fish soup (no one, but absolutely no one can cook it so tasty as the locals do). You can stay one day long, or longer, as you wish, and depending on how much you are going to like (but everyone likes, I can bet on it)

Tulcea is a gift of the Danube, and you can have excellent trips on the river, inside the Delta

Another possibility is driving along all the Romanian seaside, 150 km away. Visit all the Romanian seaside resorts, from Mamaia to Mangalia and Vama Veche. In Vama Veche you can simply turn, or going further in Bulgaria. If you really love water and sea, is a right trip! Observe the different properties of all these resorts. In Costinesti, e.g., it is almost impossible to sleep at night. This resort is renowned for its entertainment and very popular among youngsters and students. Vama Veche, on the contrary, has much more style. It is quite, relaxing, unbelievable cheap, and we hope to last in this state!

Ancient Greek artefacts in Histria

Another possibility is an archaeological tour to Histria and Adamclisi. Histria has been for centuries a Greek colony and port, and you can admire its ancient ruins. About Adamclisi there are some things to comment, for sure! Adamclisi is only 60 km away from Constanta, and that means less than 1 hour by car or bus. Observe the sunflower plantations, but also the vineyards (wine tasting in Murfatlar is almost a must do!).

The monument from Adamclisi is called Tropaeum Traiani and measures 38 meters in diameter, and 39 meters in height (shall this be the golden cut? The first impression about the monument is very positive indeed). It has been build to honor the Roman emperor Traian between the years 106-109, for a winning battle against the local Dacians, which took place in 102.  The clush was sharp and bloody. The Romans were better armed and equipped, while the locals fought sometimes only with empty hands. Observe the subtle ancient propaganda: the enemmies of Romans, no matter how brave they may have been, are depicted dying or being captured. The remaining foes of the Romans should draw the necessary lessons. Observe also   the local suits on the locals, very similar with the Romanian National suits from our days!

Wild beach parties in Vama Veche until dawn

The Monument from Adamclisi, as you can see nowadays, is actually a restauration.By the beginning of the XXth the archaelogists discovered the remaining ruins ( no more than a pile of stones!). Its restauration and inauguration in 1977 was a major success for the communist propaganda (nothing new under the sun)

Expressive paintings made by a legendary Romanian painter in Agapia monastery

If you heard something about the Romanian painter Nicolae Grigorescu is very good, but if not you must hold something in your memory about. If you have by chance the opportunity to find a painting signed by Grigorescu, I would advice you to not hesitate even a minute, no matter the price. It is very possible that you won't have the second occasion.

His paintings are the best investment possible, and be sure to double its value within 5 years. You can be sure to sell it in the best conditions at least in Romania, but Grigorescu is becoming more international, viral and global day by day.
 Grigorescu was born in 1838 and 10 years later he started painting icons, as an apprentice of a Czech master. He managed to sell almost all his paintings, but was still not able to make a living.

The Monastery of Agapia welcomes the visitor with order, and many flowers.

In 1858 he heard that the Holly Monastery of Agapia, in the Neamt County is to be restored and looks after very good painters, able to do that job. He managed somehow to get the money for coming to Agapia from Bucharest and showed him up before the superior nun. He did not trust very much that very young boy, but put it nevertheless to a test: he was supposed to paint an icon of The Holly Virgin Mary with the Baby Jesus. Grigorescu also smiled, showing himself a little arrogant, which made the Superior even more suspicious.

If you ask yourself how was Grigorescu looking , and can trust the rich imagination of an artist, this is a self portrait


The coming facts were much more important than the first impressions: he painted the icon in the best conditions, and to the highest aestethic and quality standards! A peasant from Agapia served as a model, and the Superior ended to be convinced. Nicolae Grigorescu got the contract, and made an excellent job, transforming the Agapia monastery into the Sisstine Chapel of Romania. His Saints are alive,not totally according to the Byzantine traditions, but rather similar to the works of the famous masters of Italian Renaissance!

If you understand art, you are going to fall with Grigorescu paintings grom Agapia monastery (an expressive yet impressive sample)

The Monastery of Agapia lies only 40 km away from Piatra Neamt, and is neighbor to  another renowned monastery, namely Varatec. It welcomes you in summer with many flowers and is overwhelming you through  its dimensions, comparing to other monasteries from Romania. Agapia lies in the middle of a forest and has been build at 1642. Very few people are aware, that there is another Monastery Agapia, which is upper on the hills, and lost its wealthy due to a landfall. Agapia from the Valley, also known as the new Agapia, welcomes you with heavy smells, as the kitchen works hard for the Nuns, as also for the visitors who might need some refreshments (also possible to become a payed dormitory, on a budget). Once you enter the Church, everything else is totally forgotten. The paintings of Grigorescu are really amazing and breathtaking, and you will be able to better understand my long introduction. It is hard to describe that feeling, which is equally artistic and church ecstasy. Observe, please, and note, some specific paintings, and try to guess the foreign influences: "Angel leaving Tobie" is inspired by Rembrandt; " The funeral of Jesus Christ" on a theme of  Tizian. The other ones are much more original, but not less valuable!

Afterward you can visit the Museum, exhibiting artistic artifacts and church works. Equally rich is the library, with its 15000 toms of old books. Surprise, you can even find a memorial house "Alexandru Vlahuta" (important Romanian writer, whose sister was a Nun in this monastery). The Agapia Monastery was very appealing for many Romanian cultural personalities, who used to come here.

So much culture will raise the inner man. If you are lucky enough, you can eat to the monastery, but you can also look a pension next to it, or wait to reach the town of Targu Neamt.

Middle Age mysteries in the Medieval fortress  Biertan

If it comes again about the fortified churches from Transilvania ( also known as peasant' fortresses) the first and most important name coming in my mind is for sure Biertan, ant the other hundreds come only on the second place!

Discover Biertan and the other fortresses starting from Sighisoara and Medias, which are little charming towns, themselves worth to be discovered in details, staying in hotel Binder Bubi. Another recommended lodging camp is also Sibiu, which is bigger, but not necessary much more interesting (my first proposal is hotel Continental, former Bulevard!). Anyway, once in the area, don't dare to miss the fortresses.

All these fortresses have been build by German Saxons ( Siebenbuerger Sachsen), which came in number in the XIIth century for defence purposes, brought by the Hungarian King Geza, which ruled the area. For these purposes and due to the many fight against invading barbarians, they build a lot of fortresses, and the one from Biertan (Bierthalm) is the biggest and best preserved.

No chance to dislike the fortified church of Biertan, I am sure!

Driving from Medias in the picturesque hilly region, once covered with vineyards, discover Biertan, nowadays a charming village which was in Middle Age the Residence of Catholic Archbishops. The village has been also an important craftsmen centre. Access in the church St. Mary is only possible after stopping in the Central Market and climbing a long covered stairs. Observe the three successive fortifications, and try to figure the way of life from the Middle Age!

Panoramic view of Biertan, with the church (view from the hill)

The church has been build within 30 years, starting from 1490, on the place of an older church. Admire to the Western entrance the coat of arms from the District Medias, called " The swearing hand". The St. Mary church is Gothic and has no less than three ships! Discover the Clock tower (the clock works starting from 1880) and enter the Lapidarium Tower, hosting the funeral stones of a few archbishops. I propose you to watch very carefully these tombs, observing and discovering the pelican feeding its cubs with blood, which is a symbol of the Templars! This symbols reminds the sacrifice of the big master Jacques de Molay.

May be is a good idea to discover Biertan by bike, it is in a picturesque hilly area

An amazing place, not exclusively for the married couples, is the eastern Tower. Here used to be send the couple wishing to divorce (a capital sin, for the Church) for a few months, sharing the same spoon, same glass (and the same bed btw) until they came back to more positive thoughts!

Inside the church observe the guilds' flags, the chairs, the superb painted altar (consisting of 28 paintings made by the Vienna school). If you ask the guardian to lock you inside, wou'll be totally amazed by the complicated locking mechanism. Inside, a bigger surprise. Notice the huge painting of one saint hanging there. watch it carefully, and observe a simple unbelievable fact: whereever you stay, or sit, the eyes of the saint are watching you, and his left foot is pointed also to you. No one can explain this illusion.

Most important things to do in Northern Romania

In the Romanian province of Bucovina, District Suceava, very close to the Ukraina border, you have a lot of things to and to discover.
 A good possibility is staying in Suceava with its good hotels, and exploring every day, a bigger or smaller neighboring area. Don't think now to Maramures and Satu Mare, nevertheless they are also in the extreme North of Romania. Now we shall be focused on Bucovina.

Observe please the hills and the mountains, making this area so beautiful and picturesque. The villages seem to be rich, the houses are big. Traditions are well kept and the rural society seems to be still o.k.! Don't miss in one day of your holidays in the area the black pottery of Marginea, which is very cute and has a long tradition.

On the day when you are going to visit the Putna Monastery, allow yourself some extra hours for an instructive trip to Radauti. The town of Radauti is easy accessible through a wide plain, the only one proper plain in the hilly Bucovina! A few centuries ago Radauti was an interesting ethnic mix, counting Romanian, Germans, Jews, Polish and other nationalities.

The St Nicholas Church of Radauti, nowadays the Metropolitan cathedral

Radauti has been for centuries an important trade point, which is still today, despite the huge difference comparing to the prosperous Suceava, the local star and capital. Radauti hosted even an important Orthodox archbishop, but faced many internal and fratricide fights, making it to decay a little, for the profit of Suceava.

If you arrive in Radauti at noon, or at night, it is the right time to do a culinary trip to restaurant Nordic, asking about Lidia Sticlet. I hope she is still there, at her leading place, and will strive to fill the most bizarre and cosmopolitan culinary wishes (nevertheless, she has a soft spot for the Romanian national meals, like cabbage rolls, with a half dry white wine).

The ancient Bogdana Monastery, build by the grounders of the Moldavian dynasty, namely bogdan I, which is burried here.

If you enter the town at other moment of the day, start your cultural trip from the very centre, with the Etnographic Museum. You will be able to understand better afterwards the rich long history of the town, as also the agricultural civilization of the area. Observe and admire the rich collections of wooden icons, sledges or horse wagons made by the local craftsmen, as also other agricultural  tools widely used in the area. The objects concerning the Hutzuls are of the utmost importance, because this mystery civilization is really fascinating. No one was able to answer to the simple question " Where come the Hutzuls from?". But they do exist in many remote villages, are Orthodox of the ancient calendar an their mainly occupations are shepherds and horse keeping ( they breed a special art of horses, also known as Hutzul, which is huge and strong).

The Etnographic museum from Radati is a good starting point for your trip in this area

Walk further on the streets of Radauti, towards Jewish temple, build at 1876. Very intrepid bankers, trade agents or industrials, the Jews build schools, hospital, temples, and even an establishment for old people! The Jews started to come by the end of the XVIIIth century, and were forced to leave the city in 1941, when the German troops occupied the town. Very few people escaped the Holocaust, and consequently nowadays there are very few people of this ethnic group in the town (mainly old people).

Next comes the Orthodox church of St. Nicholas, which is really an important worship building with big dimensions and interesting architecture. Next to St Nicholas church you may see Catholic or Lutheran churches, which belonged once to the German colonists, brought by the Austrian administration of Bucovina. They were craftsmen, skilled glass blowers, bricklayers, carpenters as also army officers or official clerks. But a visit in Radauti is not complete without seeing the Bogdana Monastery. Its very old and very simple, without the normal signs of importance and opulence of a Royal church. The Bogdana monastery looks simply like a peasant house, with a round pointed roof. Thick walls, no towers, these are other characteristics of this amazing church. For a history or culture freak is simply a must, because here is buried Bogdan, the first ruler of Moldavia, who reached the area coming by horse from Maramures with an important suite.