Epic trips in the Romanian Bucovina

As I talled so much about this blessed part of Romania, I propose you now a short trip not far from Suceava, namely from Radauti to Humor(Gura Humorului). If you wanna improve your Romanian knowledge, Humor is the right place! The word has the same meaning as in English, and the people are friendly, joking a lot.

The Monastery from Radauti

Discover in Radauti the impressing Sinagogue, which is really an architectural asset of Radauti, remembering the Holocaust. Further (what means further in a little town with 30 000 people?) discover, walking or riding the bike, the Zoo. It is centered first on the local animals (Bucovina is a paradise for hunters) like bear, fox,wolf, deer, lynx. Besides, exotic species, which are not so easy to keep during the long cold winter, as you can imagine! The people in the area really love animals, and also the domestic ones. It is a tradition for keeping and breeding horses, and you can visit a stud farm just entering the city. For the art freaks, be sure to find an art gallery, mainly contemporary artists.

The Church from Sucevita is one of the illustrated books of the Christianity

Only 5 km away from Radauti is the Putna Monastery. You will most probably cross more times the local train, which is not high speed Inter City, but totally satisfactory for the locals! The location of the Putna monastery has been choosen by the big ruler Stephen the Great, hauling an arrow with his bow! You can see the hill where Stefan cel Mare/Stephen the Great launched his arrow, next to the monastery. The church and the monastery are not so old anymore, due to successive destroying and restorations. Very old and well kept is the Treasure Tower, where the values were hosted during the sieges or surprise attacks. The monastery hosts nowadays the remaining of the big king, with a part of his family, and has a very interesting museum which woth paying a visit anyway. 2 km away is a remarcable place:  the refuge cell of Daniil The Monk, one of the most important adviser of the Moldavian ruler. Observe the sobriety and austerity of his cell (no electric power, no Internet, only worship!)

Spending a night in an insulated cell like this would be the best cure against digital addiction.  Imagine the strength and the strong beliefs of Daniil, the monk living in such conditions for years

 On the way from Radauti to Sucevita allow a break in Marginea, a village with good traditions in the black pottery. When you see first the Sucevita Monastery, it looks like a fortress! They have to do this during those times, you can understand it. These days in the defending walls are the cells and the museum. The church is really spectacular, dedicated to the Resurection Christi, the biggest miracle in the Orthodoxe mythology. Very impressive is the the separating wall, and the exterior painted frescos. Note the Virtue Ladder, or the Jesse's genealogical tree!

Following the direction to Moldovita, don't miss the majestic view from the highest point, The Palm Pass, before reaching and discovering the Moldovita monastery, also looking like a fortress.  Observe in the outside painting something not usual, but easy to explain: the asiege of Constantinoples! The fact is that these painted monasteries were supposed to be living books of the Christianity, with important contributions of spreading the Orthodoxe religion.

Within 30 minutes you can reach the town Gura Humorului, but please observe om your way the amazing villages of Vama, Molid or Frasin, which have and keep very old genuine local traditions. Visit in Humor the renowned Monastery of Voronet, a coronation of your travel through the rich history of the Romanian church. Voronet is surely the peak ( some visitors name it the Sistine Chapel of the East). The colours of the extrior paintings are simply amazing,and you are supposed to observe the blue! The blue of Voronet, actually, which is original, and made based on a secret recipe, probaly with powder of lapiz lazuli!

I am very much afraid of speaking too much. This trip is normally one day long, even by bike, measuring 50 kilometers. And I keep talking and talking! The reality is much better than my description, for sure, you are incited to check up!

Most important things to do in Suceava

If you plan to visit the painted monasteries from Bucovina, Suceava is the right place for lodging. The town has good connections to the Capital Bucharest, or Iasi, or even Transilvania. It is an excellent base for short trips to Voronet, Putna, Dragomirna, Moldovita and Sucevita, to name only the peaks.

The fortress of Suceava, the landmark of the city

But besides, Suceava has its own monuments and charming places, which you may not miss. The town is tighten to Stefan Cel Mare/Stephen the Great, and to the most glorious times of Moldavian history.

Suceava has an excellent position, to the intersection of trading ways from Russia to Transilvania, or from Poland to the Black Sea. Starting from the XIIIth century it became the Capital of Moldova for 200 years. Right here, in the lofty fortified citadel on the top of a hill, Stefan cel Mare welcomed many Turkish or Polish sudden attacks or sieges. The fortress last until 1675 when it was set on fire, according the orders of the Turks, which could not been disobeyed.

It is easy to reach the fortress, one of the city's main boulevard simply passes by. The outside walls are still good preserved and really look amazingly strong and reliable. Also,  from the inside separating walls has been kept arches and vaults. You can follow the defending system,, which is brilliant through its simplicity. In the good old times the fortress had one hanging bridge, as many narrow places, where the host could easily trap the unwelcomed guests. Walking through the ruins, simply to observe how little were all the rooms there.

Further, visit the old Mirauti church, which was the residence of the Moldavian archbishop, as also the very place where Stefan cel Mare was appointed and confirmed as the ruling prince of Moldavia. Very close to it the St. Dimitri church, build in the XVIth century, and still proudly carying a scuplture with the aurochs head, the coat of arms of the Medieval Moldavia.

The Mirauti Church from Suceava, very old and full of glory

If you are going to visit Suceava at about 15th August, search the Armenian Monastery Hagigadar, also called as the place where the dreams come true. You can be the witness of a very odd scene: hundreds of pilgrims climb on the knees the hill of the monastery, with a burning candle in their hands. After that, still on the knees, they go three times around the church. Thus, their hottest wish will come true. The origin of this behavior is losing in the old times. After the divine service, all the participants are invited to a ritual lunch ( or hurban, from Armenian), where they get beef rice, but also the delicoius, but strange, dumplings soup. These damplings are very specific to the Armenians, and are filled with meat.

If you wanna eat better, go to one of the city's many restaurants! I would mention first Bucovina and Casa Arcasului (excellent kitchen, good prices)

Prominent Romanians

I don't think that may of you, or even at least one, think about Romania when using a fountain pen. But the history fact is this: the inventor and patent holder is a Romanian, namely Petrache Poenaru, not very well known even among Romanians.

The Roman Emperor Traian is the ancestor of the today Romania

I also started this blog thinking to Romanian wines, and then expanded to all Romania in its aspects. And I did this to show to all the people, that neither, nor the other Romanians, or my foreign tourists are addicted, not at all. On the contrary, but a glass of wine is a wonderful thing for everyone who really loves and enjoys life.

The former legendary Romanian tennis player Ilie Nastase, a rebel bad boy of the courts

Well, we here are proud to be Romanians, due to our long history and our contributions to the world's culture and civilizations. Very well known is in the U.S the Romanian gymnast Nadia Comaneci; the tennis player Ilie Nastase was the first world wide awarded to be No 1 ATP. Ion Tiriac is another former tennis player, not so brillant like Nasty, but very notorious today as a business man (at the moment one of  the richest man in Romania). Gheorghe Hagi was a brillant legendary football player.

Nadia Comaneci at the top of her career

Digging deeper in the history, be aware that the first discovered skeleton of a Homo Sapiens was found in Romania. In the antic times, the Roman Emperor Trajanus, after conquering Dacia and beating Decebal (the both are celebrated like national heroes) raised in Rome its Column!

Traian Vuia is a pioneer of modern aviation, as other Romanians like Aurel Vlaicu and Henri Coanda

If I tell you about the Middle Age, I must mention some local kings who fought against the Pagans, thus protecting the wealthy Western World developing its culture. Let's name Stephen The Great and Michael the Brave; Iancu de Hunedoara had also Romanian blood.

The National poet is Mihai Eminescu, living in the XIXth century and being translated in many languages. Ask about the most important painter Nicolae Grigorescu at any serious art auction, and get one of his masterpieces, it is a very safe investment. Special mention for the Romanian sculpture Constantin Brancusi, who lived in the Paris vanguard of the early XXth century. Gheorghe Enescu is the most important Romanian Musician,  areal sacred monster, mastering among others Yehudi Menuhin.

George Enescu, master of Yehudi Menuhin

Nowadays, you must also know and notice that Inna is Romanian, but sings English. For the Opera freaks, think to Mariana Nicolesco, Ileana Cotrubas and Mihaela Ursuleasa.

It was a quick tour, and I find it  already overwhelming. I know much more names, but I only tried to mention the best known, to make you Romania familiar and bring it closer to you. At a glass of wine we are supposed to discuss much more than that, can't wait for it.

Suceava, the gate to the painted monasteries

Bucovina, the upper northern part of the Romanian Moldavia, is a wonderful hill land,scattered with many painted monasteries build in the middle age, mainly by the well known legendary ruler Stephen the Great (1457-1504).

Suceava Fortress, residence of Stephen the Great and capital of Moldavia

Stephen the Great is still living today, being subject to many jokes, proving his strong influence in all Romanian history. The history fact is that he was an exponent of a new ascending country, namely Moldavia, and he managed to keep a certain independence of Moldavia, despite its many enemies ( Turks, Polish, Hungarians etc). His capital was in Suceava, look anyway for the fortress of Suceava (Cetate).

City Hall from Suceava is a good example of Secession style

The fortress of Suceava is very strong, and from here Moldavia has been ruled for centuries. On unknown reasons, in the XVII th the fortress of Suceava was left and deserted, but even nowadays, after successful restaurations, is very impressive. The walls are 20 meters high and 2 meters thick, and you can try climbing then during your visit (there is a small fee to be paid). From the fortress you have a good sight to the all city, and decide what else to do here.

The interesting railway station from Suceava, in my opinion one of the nicest in Romania

Suceava has today 100000 inhabitants, among them a few Rusians, Ukrainians, Lipovans and Polish (more than 90 % are Romanians). Suceava was a century ruled by the Habsburgic empire, and you can still find some things to remember, e.g. the Catholic Church. Orthodoxes Curches are much more, but you may not miss the Miclauti Church, where for centuries the Moldavia's ruler have been appointed and crowned. Observe there the ingenious positioning of the bell, which is not in a separate tower, but included in the front wall.

The orthodox church of Miclauti, Suceava where for centuries the  Moldavian Rulers have been appointed and crowned

You also can't miss the horse statue of Stephen the Great, dominating the city, and the railway station with its 100 years old architecture, one of the most beautiful in Romania.

Suceava is maybe the only city in Bucovina, and has an important tourist circulation. The offer on hotels and restaurants is wide and generous. I would suggest you Hotel and Restaurant Bucovina, and the restaurant Casa Arcasului, for the good balance quality and price (the both are high end category).

From Suceava you can make daily trips to the painted monasteries, one of the most important things to see in all Romania. But you need nevertheless at least another day to visit Suceava Museums: Ethnography Museum, History Museum, Art Museum. Men, you are going to like and love Suceava for sure.